Vario x RZE UltraHex: A Titanium Take On The WWI Trench Watch

Singapore-based independent brands Vario and RZE have come together to create a collaborative timepiece that merges early 20th-century military design with cutting-edge materials and modern construction. The result is the Vario x RZE UltraHex Trench, a limited edition watch offered in three distinct dial variants, each produced in just 100 pieces.

A Classic Profile Reinforced with UltraHex Technology

Based on Vario’s 1918 Trench watch, which draws direct inspiration from wristwatches worn by soldiers during World War I, the collaboration introduces a highly modern reinterpretation through material innovation. The 37 mm case—with a lug-to-lug length of 45 mm and 10 mm thickness—is crafted from Grade 2 titanium and treated with RZE’s proprietary UltraHex coating, increasing surface hardness to 1,200HV. This significantly boosts scratch resistance while maintaining lightweight comfort on the wrist.

The case features a sandblasted matte finish, aligning with the utilitarian aesthetic and differentiating it from the more polished and brushed finishes seen in Vario’s standard trench line. A domed sapphire crystal (2mm thick) ensures durability and clear visibility, while a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock and solid caseback support the watch’s 100 meters of water resistance.

Functional Design with Material Innovation

True to the trench watch’s heritage, the model incorporates fixed wire lugs, which accommodate 18mm pass-through or bund-style straps. Each dial variant is matched with a crazy horse leather strap, secured with rivets and flat-head screws around the fixed lugs—an intentional nod to vintage construction techniques.

The UltraHex Trench is available in three dial configurations: the first variant features a glossy enamel dial in RZE’s signature “Medallion Yellow,” offering a vibrant pop of color. The second introduces a rare “Timascus” dial—a patterned, heat-treated titanium composite that echoes the layered look of Damascus steel. Completing the lineup is a version with a forged “Carbon Fiber” dial infused with luminous material, creating a captivating glow-in-the-dark visual effect.

Each dial retains the same layout: cathedral-style hands, Arabic numerals, and a running seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. All hands and markers are treated with blue-glowing Super-LumiNova, while the forged carbon model includes embedded green-glowing lume within the dial surface itself—providing a unique visual contrast in low light.

Co-branding is subtle: a luminous RZE logo appears on the crown, and another is embedded inside the running seconds register on the dial.

Powered by a Proven Automatic Movement

Inside the UltraHex Trench is the Miyota 82S5 automatic movement, part of the Japanese brand’s well-regarded 8xxx family. This 21,600 vph caliber offers approximately 40 hours of power reserve and is known for its robust reliability. It features gilt finishing with Geneva stripes, despite being hidden behind a closed caseback. The 82S5’s defining feature is its sub-seconds layout, allowing for a symmetrical and balanced dial presentation.

Limited Availability and Pricing

Altogether, the Vario x RZE UltraHex Trench is a compelling fusion of early 20th-century military watch design and contemporary material science. The collaboration introduces a level of durability and visual intrigue that sets it apart from either brand’s solo catalog. With pricing set at USD 439 for the enamel version and USD 499 for both the Timascus and luminous carbon models, the collection presents a rare opportunity to own a piece of collaborative horological craftsmanship—available in 100 units each.

Read more here.

General Specifications:

Brand: Vario

Model: UltraHe Trench with RZE

Reference: Medallion Yellow, Carbon Fiber, Timascus

Dial: Yellow enamel, carbon fiber, heat-treated titanium composite

Case Material: UltraHex Titanium

Case Dimensions: 37 mm Diameter, 10 mm thickness, 45 mm lug-to-lug

Crystal: Sapphire glass

Case Back: Titanium

Water Resistance: 100 Meters

Strap: Bund-style leather strap with rivets and a steel pin buckle

Caliber: Miyota 82S5

Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds

Winding: Automatic

Jewels: 21

Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 Vph)

Power Reserve: 40 hours

Price: USD 439 (Medallion Yellow), USD 499 (Carbon Fibre, Timascus)

Availability: Now

Limited Edition: Yes, 100 pieces each