Universal Genève’s Big Comeback Includes Four Major New Collections

After years of anticipation following its acquisition by Breitling, Universal Genève officially returns with a comprehensive relaunch that pays tribute to its heritage while introducing a distinctly modern vision.

The historic Swiss manufacture, founded in 1894, re-enters the spotlight with four main collections: Polerouter, Compax, Cabriolet, and Disco Mini. Alongside these, the brand also introduces exclusive Signature and Couture editions, reinforcing its renewed positioning under the “Watch Couturier” concept.

The relaunch blends archival inspiration with contemporary design language, premium finishing, and newly developed In-house calibres, many of them staying faithful to Universal Genève’s legacy of ultra-thin micro-rotor movements.

The Return of the Polerouter

The legendary Polerouter, originally designed by Gérald Genta, naturally takes center stage in the new lineup.

Faithful to the original design, the modern Polerouter preserves its recognizable case architecture and signature crosshair dial layout. The collection is offered in 37 mm and 39 mm case sizes, available in stainless steel and rose gold.

Dial options include elegant blue, brown, and black tones, paired with leather straps or a vintage-inspired Gay Frères-style “four bricks” bracelet, a nod to the historical references collectors admire.

For those seeking something more expressive, Universal Genève introduces Capsule Editions with more decorative dial executions. These feature a quadrant-style camaïeu dial effect, where alternating textures create subtle visual contrast across the dial surface.

Among the standout references are versions with tiger’s eye and lapis lazuli stone dials, adding a luxurious and highly collectible dimension to the Polerouter line.

Powering the collection is the new UG-110 automatic calibre, a micro-rotor movement with a 72-hour power reserve.

At only 3.80 mm thick, the movement remains impressively slim and is decorated with Geneva stripes, perlage finishing, and an engraved micro-rotor, directly referencing one of Universal Genève’s most important historical innovations.

Universal Genève, Polerouter. Black / blue / brown dial (core), stainless steel / 18k rose gold case, 37 / 39 mm diameter, 9.35 / 9.50 mm thickness, sapphire crystal, 100 meters water resistance. Alligator leather strap / stainless steel  or 18k rose gold brick bracelet. Calibre UG-110, automatic movement with micro-rotor, hour, minutes, seconds (core), 28,800 Vph, 72h power reerve. Price: from CHF 14,000.

Compax: The Iconic Chronograph Reimagined

The Compax marks the return of one of the brand’s most celebrated chronograph families.

The new collection arrives in 39.50 mm cases, combining vintage-inspired proportions with modern execution. The core lineup includes classic panda and reverse panda dial configurations in stainless steel, as well as a refined rose gold version with a blue dial and white sub-counters.

A ceramic bezel insert modernizes the design while improving durability, and buyers can choose between leather straps, bund straps, or a vintage-style steel bracelet.

The more fashion-forward Capsule models introduce linen-textured dials in softer color palettes such as sage, lilac, and light indigo. These versions retain the same chronograph architecture but present a more lifestyle-oriented aesthetic.

Inside beats the newly developed UG-200 calibre, an automatic micro-rotor chronograph movement with column-wheel construction.

The movement offers a 72-hour power reserve and measures only 6.63 mm in thickness, making it notably slim for a self-winding chronograph calibre.

This technical choice reinforces Universal Genève’s historical reputation for refined chronograph engineering.

Universal Genève, Compax. Black / white / midnight blue dial (core), stainless steel / 18k rose gold case, 40 mm diameter, 12.45 mm thickness, sapphire crystal, 100 meters water resistance. Alligator bund leather strap / stainless steel bracelet. Calibre UG-200, automatic movement with micro-rotor, hour, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, 28,800 Vph, 72h power reerve. Price: from CHF 15,500.

Cabriolet: Art Deco Elegance with a Reversible Case

Another standout of the relaunch is the Cabriolet, a historically inspired rectangular watch first introduced in 1933.

Defined by its Art Deco design language, the Cabriolet features a reversible case concept similar in spirit to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, but with its own mechanical solution.

The central watch body pivots out from its frame via a hinge positioned at 6 o’clock, allowing the case to be rotated and secured back into place.

The standard models come in 27 mm x 17.50 mm cases, primarily in rose gold, alongside a steel version.

Dial options include black, white, red, and blue lacquered finishes, all featuring striking Bifur numerals, a typeface strongly associated with 1920s and 1930s design.

The collection is powered by the UG-111 manual-wind movement, an ultra-thin calibre measuring just 3 mm thick and offering a robust 72-hour power reserve.

A particularly exclusive version is the Cabriolet De Lempicka, limited to just 15 pieces, featuring hand-painted miniature artwork on the reverse side inspired by the works of Tamara de Lempicka.

Universal Genève, Cabriolet. Black / white / blue / red dial (core), stainless steel / 18k rose gold / 18k rose gold set-diamonds / red gold case, 24 mm diameter, 8 mm thickness, 45 mm lug-to-lug, sapphire crystal, 100 meters water resistance. Alligator leather strap / stainless steel or 18k rose gold or red gold bracelet. Calibre UG-111, hand-wound movement, hour, minutes, seconds, 21,600 Vph, 72h power reerve. Price: from CHF 9,800.

Disco Mini: A Contemporary Jewellery Watch

The Disco Mini represents the only entirely new design language in the launch.

Inspired by historic disco volante-style watches, the collection embraces a lugless, rounded silhouette with a distinctly jewellery-focused approach.

Sized at 28 mm, the watch is available in rose gold and white gold, featuring a clous de Paris bezel and a sculpted mother-of-pearl dial.

Designed primarily for a feminine audience, the Disco Mini also includes interchangeable straps and high-jewellery variations.

Inside is the UG-300 quartz calibre, a slim 2.70 mm movement, chosen to maintain the compact proportions of the case.

The Disco Mini Lace elevates the concept further with a diamond-set lattice design and a blue mother-of-pearl dial.

Signature and Couture Editions

Beyond the four main collections, Universal Genève expands the relaunch with highly exclusive Signature and Couture pieces.

These include reinterpretations of archival designs such as the Disco Volante chronograph and the highly unconventional Dioramic.

The Disco Volante adopts a 43 mm lugless case, available in steel and rose gold, powered by the same UG-200 chronograph movement found in the Compax.

Meanwhile, the Dioramic offers a far more experimental aesthetic with an oversized fluted bezel and compact central time display, powered by the UG-110 micro-rotor movement.

The Couture line pushes further into high-jewellery territory with gemstone-set bezels, jade dials, sapphires, rubies, fire opals, and elaborate mother-of-pearl marquetry.

A Strong New Chapter for Universal Genève

With this relaunch, Universal Genève clearly positions itself as more than a heritage revival.

The use of new in-house movements, extensive micro-rotor engineering, archival references, and bold jewellery pieces signals a broad strategy aimed at collectors, enthusiasts, and luxury buyers alike.

The return of icons such as the Polerouter and Compax will undoubtedly attract the most attention, but the diversity of the full launch suggests the brand is aiming to establish a much broader identity in today’s market.

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