The Hidden Stars And Surprising Trends Of Watches And Wonders 2025
Nearly three weeks after Watches and Wonders 2025 wrapped up, and after publishing over 70 dedicated articles, the time has come to reflect on the key trends and standout watches that defined this year’s event. From a growing shift toward smaller cases to vibrant dial designs and a new wave of blue ceramic, here’s our in-depth review of what left a lasting impression.
Smaller Watches, Bigger Appeal
The clearest trend this year—one that’s been gaining momentum—is the noticeable shift towards smaller, more refined watch cases. Brands that previously held firm to larger dimensions are now embracing this elegant direction. A. Lange & Söhne surprised us with a beautifully balanced debut of the 1815 in a compact 34mm case. Bell & Ross introduced a 36mm version of the BR 05, bringing a dressier feel to a typically bold sports model. IWC downsized its iconic Ingenieur to a sleek 35mm, while Alpina impressed with the 34mm Tropic Proof—a vintage-inspired watch in a truly wearable size. Even Montblanc joined the trend with the 38mm Iced Sea Automatic 0 Oxygen, a rugged yet wrist-friendly diver.
This movement isn’t just a design fad—it signals a broader industry acknowledgment that comfort and timeless proportions matter.
Colorful Dials Are Still Thriving
Another trend that continues to gain ground is the widespread use of bold and colorful dials. There’s an undeniable appeal to watches that express personality through color, and this year many brands stepped into the spotlight with playful palettes. Oris refreshed its Big Crown Pointer Date with lively new colorways. Nomos Glashütte gave its Zürich Worldtimer a fresh lease of life with eye-catching hues. H. Moser & Cie made a bold statement with the Pop Capsule Collection—an 18-piece limited release featuring dials as daring as they are unique. Meistersinger also charmed us with the Neo Special, a model that brings minimalist flair through rich, vibrant tones.
Clearly, expressive dial colors are here to stay, giving collectors more ways to stand out.
The Subtle Rise of Blue Ceramic
Perhaps the least expected, yet most intriguing trend of Watches and Wonders 2025 is the emergence of blue ceramic as a standout material. Chanel led the charge, showcasing this striking hue as a signature of its latest haute horology creations. Meanwhile, Zenith also contributed with a trio of models finished in deep, moody blue ceramic. Audemars Piguet, although not present at the fair, launched new blue ceramic models concurrently, underscoring the material’s growing relevance in luxury watchmaking.
Blue ceramic’s allure lies not only in its aesthetics but also in its durability—offering a technical advantage wrapped in visual drama.
Our Favorite Watches of Watches and Wonders 2024
Let’s now turn to the releases that truly captivated us—whether through innovation, unexpected design choices, or sheer beauty.
The much-anticipated Rolex Land Dweller created a whirlwind of emotions. Our initial enthusiasm gave way to some reservations, particularly around its honeycomb dial, which we found a bit excessive. A smoother dial might have created a better visual balance. Still, the movement inside is impressive and deserves deeper exploration.
Tudor, as usual, brought a mix of hits and near-misses. The Black Bay 58 with its burgundy dial and bezel initially won us over—but only in low light. Under bright lighting, the tone felt overly vibrant. The Pelagos Ultra and Black Bay 68, both measuring 43mm, felt oversized and somewhat at odds with the growing preference for smaller cases. The Black Bay Pro with the new Opaline dial, however, stood out as a highlight. That said, we would have loved to see it with a slimmer case profile and a newer movement to match.
Frederique Constant and Alpina continued to deliver exceptional value. The new Classic Perpetual Calendar from Frederique Constant combines refined design with surprising affordability, while Alpina’s new Tropic Proof merges durability and retro styling with a price point that’s hard to beat.
Among the indie darlings, Nomos Glashütte impressed with its new Worldtimer model. It’s colorful, functional, and perfectly in line with the brand’s Bauhaus-inspired elegance.
Chronoswiss, often overlooked, quietly released a strong lineup. The Pulse One with an integrated bracelet stood out for its contemporary silhouette, while the Small Second and the dramatic Q-Repeater Scream showed the brand’s willingness to push creative boundaries.
IWC’s standout release was undoubtedly the new 35mm Ingenieur. The rose gold variant is simply stunning, but the steel versions with black and silver dials offer compelling alternatives. Additionally, the green dial version with gilt accents—worn by Brad Pitt in the upcoming Formula 1 movie—is a beautiful execution of sport-luxury aesthetics, even at 40mm.
Parmigiani Fleurier stole our hearts this year. The Tonda PF GMT stood out with its smart travel complication, while the green-toned Skeleton model and the Ultra-Cermet Sport Chronograph demonstrated both creativity and technical finesse. The new Toric Perpetual Calendar rounded off an extraordinary collection. If we had to pick just one Parmigiani, the decision would be incredibly difficult.
Other favorites included the new Piaget Polo 79 in white gold, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface in rose gold, the stealthy and iconic Cartier Tank à Guichet, and the nostalgic Angelus Chronograph Télémètre—all watches that offer unique stories and timeless appeal.
Final Thoughts
Watches and Wonders 2025 showcased the evolution of modern horology—where classic proportions, bold expression, and innovative materials are redefining the landscape. The return of smaller watch sizes, the persistence of colorful dials, and the surprising emergence of blue ceramic all suggest a market that is both diverse and dynamic.
Whether you’re new to collecting or a seasoned aficionado, this year’s novelties offered something for everyone. These trends and models didn’t just impress us—they reflected where the future of watchmaking is heading.
