Tag: Retrograde Hours

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September 16 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s Ode To Time: The Métiers d’Art Tribute To The Quest Of Time

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Vacheron Constantin marks the eve of its 270th anniversary with an extraordinary horological creation — the Métiers d’Art “Tribute to the Quest of Time”. Limited to just 20 pieces, this timepiece combines artistic craftsmanship with high-end mechanical innovation, echoing the grand La Quête du Temps automaton clock that inspired its design.

A Living Figure as Timekeeper

At the centre of the watch lies a three-dimensional human figure, meticulously crafted from titanium and treated with golden PVD before being sandblasted and hand-patinated to achieve its intricate finish. This figure is not merely decorative — its arms serve as retrograde hands, displaying the hours on the left in Roman numerals and the minutes on the right in Arabic numerals. These indications travel across white gold tracks with an opaline finish, set against a double sapphire dial that allows a clear view of the movement beneath.

A Celestial Homage to 1755

The upper sapphire crystal features a blue fumé gradient created via metallisation, forming the backdrop for constellations as seen from Geneva on the day the Maison was founded in 1755. The Vacheron Constantin logo is printed in golden powder, while power-reserve scales appear in white. A second sapphire layer protects this delicate artwork from damage.

Astronomical Complications and 3D Moon

Hovering above the figure’s head is a spherical moon made of titanium, engraved and polished by hand. One hemisphere is finished in golden PVD to represent the illuminated side, while the other is treated with deep blue PVD to signify the dark side. This moon rotates to indicate the lunar phases, while a surrounding ring shows the age of the moon in days, with both elements moving on their own axes. Turning the watch over reveals a sapphire astronomical dial on the back, with a blue sapphire disc beneath displaying a rotating star chart. This chart shows the constellations in real time and measures sidereal time with a remarkable precision, remaining accurate to within one day over 9,130 years.

Dual Power Reserve and Patented Mechanisms

The watch is powered by the in-house Caliber 3670, a movement running at 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour) and offering a six-day power reserve. This reserve is indicated on two opposing subdials, balancing the layout on the lower part of the dial. The calibre is the subject of four patent applications, including one for a system that synchronises the return of both retrograde arms so they snap back in unison at 12:00, and another for the distinctive split power-reserve display. The figure’s titanium construction minimises the force needed for the arms’ retrograde motion, reducing stress on the movement and ensuring longevity.

Two Modes: Always-On or On-Demand

Owners can choose between two display modes. In the standard “always-on” mode, the arms continuously track the passing hours and minutes. Alternatively, the watch can be placed in “standby” mode, where the figure’s arms rest in a neutral position until the wearer activates them by pressing a pusher at 10 o’clock. The arms will then display the time and return to rest when the pusher is pressed again, all while the timekeeping continues quietly in the background. This on-demand display preserves the element of surprise and reduces wear on the mechanism.

Case and Finishing

The watch is housed in an 18k white gold case measuring 43 mm in diameter and 13.58 mm thick. The movement is finished with subtle circular graining to improve legibility through the transparent sapphire dials. Only twenty pieces will be made, and Vacheron Constantin has not disclosed the price.

A Celebration of Time and Craft

The Métiers d’Art “Tribute to the Quest of Time” is both a technical showcase and a poetic homage to Vacheron Constantin’s long legacy. Combining artistry, astronomical precision, and mechanical ingenuity, it perfectly embodies the spirit of the brand’s 270-year quest to master time.

A Kiss At Midnight: Van Cleef & Arpels Brings Romance To The Wrist

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Van Cleef & Arpels continues to blur the line between high horology and poetic storytelling with the release of the Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate. This timepiece is the latest evolution in the Maison’s celebrated tradition of animated complications, fusing masterful craftsmanship with theatrical artistry.

The scene set on the dial is unmistakably Parisian, portraying a guinguette — a charming outdoor café and dance hall — as the romantic backdrop. In the foreground, two delicately sculpted figures represent a pair of lovers gradually drawn to one another. True to Van Cleef & Arpels’ narrative spirit, the characters do more than mark the passing of time: they interact, moving gracefully across the dial until they meet to share a kiss at both noon and midnight.

The time display is integrated into this tableau through a double retrograde mechanism, represented by two gold stars moving across a sky of grisaille enamel clouds. This configuration ensures legibility without interrupting the artistic integrity of the scene.

Underpinning the animation is a newly developed automaton movement, specifically created to support the dual motions required by the display — the synchronized advance of each figure and their gentle lean toward one another. This sophisticated choreography is powered by a mechanical manual-winding movement that also allows the wearer to activate the scene on demand via a discreet pusher at 8 o’clock.

Though the maison has kept the full details of the movement confidential, the focus is clearly on emotion and effect rather than technical exposition. The power reserve is rated at approximately 36 hours, a notable figure considering the energy required to operate the automaton feature.

The dial showcases the Maison’s commitment to métiers d’art, notably the use of grisaille enamel, a rare and meticulous technique that builds soft luminosity through layers of white enamel on a dark base. To enhance the visual depth, shades of midnight blue enamel are applied to the clouds, contrasting beautifully with the warm gold accents of the figures and stars.

Housed in a diamond-set white gold case measuring 38mm, the watch is finished with a caseback engraved with swirling motifs, preserving the mystique of the hidden movement while reinforcing the aesthetic harmony of the piece.

As with previous creations in the Poetic Complications collection, the Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate is more than a watch — it’s a miniature performance on the wrist, where engineering and emotion meet in perfect balance.

Price: CHF 142,000 (leather strap), price on application for the bracelet version.

HYT Unveils S1 Titanium Japan Limited Edition: Exclusivity Redefined

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HYT has unveiled the S1 Titanium Japan Limited Edition to commemorate 160 years of diplomatic relations between Japan and Switzerland. This timepiece, limited to just eight pieces, showcases HYT’s renowned hydromechanical expertise in a bold titanium case and an open-worked dial. Marking the pre-launch of the S1 model into HYT’s permanent collection, the watch blends technological innovation with artistic craftsmanship.

The watch features a black-coated titanium case, measuring 45.30mm in diameter, 17.20mm in thickness, and 46.30mm in length, giving it a commanding presence on the wrist. Both sides of the case are equipped with sapphire crystal for enhanced durability and clarity, while the crown, located between 2 and 3 o’clock with protective guards, adds to its sleek design. With a water resistance of 50 meters, the S1 balances its futuristic aesthetic with robust functionality.

The skeletonized dial presents a captivating visual display, highlighted by an inner honeycomb 12-hour bezel that operates in tandem with a miniature flange, serving as retrograde hour markers. This is complemented by a minute rehaut adorned with Arabic numerals, creating a seamless progression of time. A small seconds counter, strategically positioned between 9 and 10 o’clock, and a power reserve indicator near the crown add practical functionality to the design. Satin-finished hands, filled with Super-LumiNova, ensure excellent legibility even in low-light conditions. However, the true marvel lies in HYT’s iconic twin bellows system, a hydromechanical innovation encased in a glass tube so fine it’s four times thinner than a strand of hair, yet boasting water resistance 10,000 times stronger than that of a traditional diving watch. This groundbreaking technology showcases HYT’s unparalleled mastery of avant-garde horology.

At the heart of the S1 Titanium Japan Limited Edition is the Caliber 501-CM, a hydromechanical movement first introduced in 2012. Comprising 352 components and 41 jewels, this movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a power reserve of up to three days, underscoring the technical sophistication behind the watch’s design.

The watch comes with a light grey Velcro strap featuring a loop buckle for a modern look and includes an additional black rubber strap with a pin buckle for versatility. Pricing details are available upon request, further enhancing the exclusivity of this remarkable timepiece.