Tag: Perpetual Calendar

On June 26, 1801, Abraham-Louis Breguet received the patent for one of watchmaking’s most influential inventions: the tourbillon. Developed to improve chronometric precision by reducing the effects of gravity on the regulating organ, the mechanism remains one of haute horlogerie’s most prestigious complications more than two centuries later.

To mark the 225th anniversary of this milestone, Breguet unveils four new tourbillon watches that showcase different interpretations of the complication through traditional craftsmanship, technical innovation, and contemporary finishing. The commemorative collection includes the new Classique Tourbillon 7357, Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255, Tradition Tourbillon Fusée and Chain 7047, and Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887.

Classique Tourbillon 7357: A Modern Evolution of a Breguet Icon

The Classique Tourbillon 7357 revisits one of Breguet’s most recognizable tourbillon wristwatch architectures while introducing significant technical and aesthetic improvements.

Available in either Breguet gold or platinum, the watch is housed in a compact 35 mm case measuring only 9.20 mm in thickness with a 43mm lug-to-lug distance. Despite its elegant dimensions, the redesigned case now offers 30 metres of water resistance, improving everyday practicality.

The model introduces Breguet’s latest case architecture, combining modernized lugs with the return of the manufacture’s signature fluted caseband. Unlike traditional stamped fluting, the coin-edge decoration is now executed using hand-guilloché techniques, adding another level of craftsmanship to the exterior finishing.

Powering the watch is the manually wound Calibre 187, an evolution of the historic architecture that traces its origins back to some of Breguet’s most celebrated tourbillon wristwatches. According to the manufacture, approximately 41% of the movement’s components are newly developed while preserving the compact proportions of the original construction.

Operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5Hz), the movement provides a 60-hour power reserve and incorporates several modern technical upgrades, including a Breguet Nivachron balance spring and a silicon pallet lever to improve resistance to magnetic fields and long-term stability.

One of the most visible updates concerns the tourbillon bridge. The previous bone-shaped cross bridge gives way to a polished double-arched bridge that extends towards the edge of the dial and continues on the movement side, creating a more symmetrical appearance between front and back.

The one-minute tourbillon also serves as a running seconds display, with its three arms indicating 20-second intervals thanks to the movement’s slower beat rate.

Movement finishing includes a newly developed guilloché pattern known as “Dent de Vaulion,” inspired by the landscape surrounding the Vallée de Joux and the mountain overlooking Lac de Joux near Breguet’s manufacture. The anniversary theme continues around the movement’s perimeter with engravings referencing the original tourbillon patent date and its 225th anniversary.

The dial combines several traditional decorative techniques, including a Clous de Paris guilloché pattern at the centre and a barleycorn motif radiating outward from the tourbillon aperture. Depending on the case material, the watch is paired with either an opaline Breguet gold dial or an anthracite dial for the platinum version.

Additional details include blued gold Breguet hands for enhanced magnetic resistance and newly introduced nameplates displaying both the Breguet signature and the individual production number.

Unlike the other anniversary tourbillon models, the Classique Tourbillon 7357 joins Breguet’s permanent collection rather than being produced as a limited edition, and the price is CHF 140,000 in Breguet gold and
CHF 154,000 in platinum.

Breguet, Classique Tourbillon 7357. 7357PT, 7357BH. 18K Breguet gold  dial with electroplated anthracite/opaline finish. Platinum/Breguet gold case, 35 mm Diameter, 9.20 mm thickness, 43 mm lug-to-lug, sapphire crystal, 30 meters water resistance. Calfskin strap with three-piece deployant. Calibre 187B, hand wound movement, hour, minutes, seconds via tourbillon, 2.5 Hz, 60 hours of power reserve. Price: CHF 140,000 (Breguet gold), CHF 154,000 (platinum)

Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 in Platinum with Black Aventurine Enamel

The Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 returns in a new platinum execution, pairing the collection’s traditional aesthetics with one of Breguet’s most visually captivating complications: a flying tourbillon with a “mysterious” architecture.

The 38 mm platinum case measures 10.20 mm in thickness and retains several signature Breguet design elements, including the fluted caseband and straight welded lugs secured with screws.

Its defining feature is the black aventurine enamel dial, whose sparkling appearance evokes a star-filled night sky. Complementing the dark surface is a black-finished gold chapter ring, while the applied numerals and Breguet hands receive rhodium plating to match the cool tones of the platinum case.

The flying tourbillon appears to float above the dial thanks to sapphire components used for the lower bridge and carriage support, creating the illusion that the regulating organ rotates without any visible mechanical connection. The tourbillon cage rises 2.20 mm above the movement plate and projects 0.90 mm above the dial surface, further enhancing the three-dimensional effect.

Inside is the manually wound Calibre 187M1, derived from Breguet’s established tourbillon architecture. Operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5Hz), the movement delivers a 50-hour power reserve and incorporates a blue Nivachron balance spring for improved resistance to magnetic fields and temperature variations.

The caseback reveals a rhodium-plated 18k Breguet gold movement decorated with the Maison’s Quai de l’Horloge guilloché motif.

The Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 is paired with a matte black alligator leather strap, limited to 50 pieces and the price is CHF 223,000.

Breguet, Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255. 7255PT. Black aventurine Grand Feu enamel dial. Platinum case, 38 mm Diameter, 10.20 mm thickness, 47.60 mm lug-to-lug, sapphire crystal, 30 meters water resistance. Black alligator leather strap. Calibre 187M1, hand wound movement, hour, minutes, seconds via tourbillon, 2.5 Hz, 50 hours of power reserve. Price: CHF 223,000 limited to 50 pieces.

Tradition Tourbillon Fusée and Chain 7047 in Shades of Blue

Among Breguet’s most technically sophisticated creations, the Tradition Tourbillon 7047 combines two historical solutions designed to improve timekeeping precision: the tourbillon and the fusée-and-chain transmission system.

For the anniversary edition, Breguet presents the watch in a platinum case measuring 41 mm in diameter and 16 mm in thickness, introducing an entirely new blue colour palette inspired by traditional French tones.

The open-worked architecture characteristic of the Tradition collection remains unchanged, exposing the movement’s technical components directly on the dial side. Deep Bleu de France tones are used for the bridges, dial elements and enamel surfaces, while the movement’s mainplate receives a contrasting glacier blue finish.

The visual contrast extends to the rear of the watch, creating a coherent design language throughout the movement. Even the jewel traditionally found on the tourbillon bridge has been replaced with a blue spinel to maintain chromatic consistency.

At the heart of the watch beats the hand-wound Calibre 569, operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour and featuring a one-minute tourbillon regulator equipped with a silicon balance spring.

The movement’s fusée-and-chain mechanism consists of a miniature chain assembled from 232 individual links. Working together with the cone-shaped fusée, the system compensates for variations in mainspring torque, ensuring a more constant delivery of energy to the escapement throughout the entire power reserve.

The movement offers approximately 55 hours of autonomy.

The anniversary edition is completed by a Bleu de France rubber strap with contrasting glacier blue stitching.

Production will be limited to 25 units and the price is CHF 246,300.

Breguet, Tradition Tourbillon 7047. 7047PT. Openworked dial with palladium gold and Grand Feu bleu de France enamel. Platinum case, 41 mm Diameter, 16 mm thickness, 50.50 mm lug-to-lug, sapphire crystal, 30 meters water resistance. Bleu de France rubber strap with a platinum deployant clasp. Calibre 569, hand wound movement, hour, minutes, seconds via tourbillon, 2.5 Hz, 55 hours of power reserve. Price: CHF 246,300 limited to 25 pieces.

Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 with Celestial Dial

The final anniversary release takes the tourbillon into a more contemporary and sporty setting with a new platinum version of the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887.

The 43.90 mm platinum case houses one of the most complicated movements currently produced by Breguet, combining a tourbillon regulator, perpetual calendar, running equation of time display, and automatic winding through a peripheral rotor system.

The centrepiece of the watch is its highly elaborate dial, which recreates the night sky above Paris on June 26, 1801, at midnight — the exact moment associated with the granting of the tourbillon patent.

The dial construction involves multiple artisanal techniques. At its centre lies a sapphire disc decorated with gradient blue Grand Feu enamel, while the upper surface features hand-painted luminescent constellations and a moon rendered in miniature enamel painting.

Breguet also offers owners the possibility of personalising the sky display according to a specific date and location, creating a unique astronomical representation for each watch.

In addition to displaying conventional time, the watch incorporates a perpetual calendar and an equation of time indication that continuously displays the difference between solar time and civil time, a variation that can range from minus 16 to plus 14 minutes throughout the year.

The automatic Calibre 581DPE operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and provides an 80-hour power reserve. The movement uses a silicon balance spring and features a tourbillon regulator visible through an aperture on the dial.

The caseback showcases hand engraving depicting the Royal Louis sailing ship against a rhodium-plated seascape and sky, while the barrel drum receives a hand-engraved rosace decoration crafted in Breguet gold — a first for the Marine collection.

The Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 is available with either a blue rubber strap featuring the Quai de l’Horloge motif or a full platinum bracelet.

Production will be limited to 25 pieces, and the price is CHF 292,300 with a rubber strap and CHF 370,700 with a platinum bracelet.

Breguet, Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887. 5887PT. Blue-gradient and translucent Grand Feu enameled sapphire dial. Platinum case, 43.90 mm Diameter, 11.80 mm thickness, 51.50 mm lug-to-lug, sapphire crystal, 100 meters water resistance. Platinum bracelet/rubber strap. Calibre 581DPE, hand wound movement, hour, minutes, seconds via tourbillon, prepetual calendar, equation of time, 4 Hz, 80 hours of power reserve. Price: CHF 292,300 (on rubber strap), CHF 370,700 (on platinum bracelet), limited to 25 pieces.

Celebrating an Enduring Invention

Rather than revisiting the past through faithful reproductions, Breguet has chosen to celebrate the 225th anniversary of the tourbillon by demonstrating the versatility of the complication across four very different expressions of modern haute horlogerie.

From the neo-classical proportions of the Classique Tourbillon 7357 and the floating architecture of the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral to the constant-force engineering of the Tradition 7047 and the astronomical complexity of the Marine 5887, the collection highlights how the tourbillon continues to evolve while remaining deeply connected to its origins in 1801.

Together, these four watches reflect not only the historical importance of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention but also the manufacture’s ongoing commitment to technical innovation, traditional decoration techniques, and contemporary interpretations of one of watchmaking’s most celebrated complications.

More information at www.breguet.com.