Tag: Openworked Dial

Panerai_Luminor31GiorniPAM01631_1100x667_1

April 14 2026

Panerai Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631 – A New Dimension Of Time

Ricardo Amaral NEW RELEASES, PANERAI, Uncategorized 2026, Gold, Limited Edition, Openworked Dial, Power Reserve, Small Seconds, Watches and Wonders 2026 0

The art of watchmaking often lives in the delicate balance between tradition and innovation. Few brands embody this tension quite like Panerai, a maison rooted in robust military heritage yet unafraid to push the boundaries of mechanical ingenuity. And every so often, a creation emerges that doesn’t just impress—it redefines expectations. The new Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631 is precisely that kind of watch.

If the Luminor 8 Giorni PAM01733, with its evocative Brunito case, captured our imagination through vintage charm, the PAM01631 takes a different path—one paved with technical audacity. At its heart lies a staggering 31-day power reserve, equivalent to 744 hours. It’s not just impressive; it’s almost surreal in a world where most mechanical watches are content with a few days of autonomy.

A Seven-Year Journey of Innovation

This achievement didn’t happen overnight. The PAM01631 is the culmination of seven years of dedicated research and development by Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee. The result is the Calibre P.2031/S, a manual-winding movement that represents both complexity and restraint.

While its architecture actually stores up to 36 days of energy across four barrels, the movement is engineered to intentionally stop at day 31—a thoughtful decision aimed at preserving long-term reliability and performance.

Composed of 276 components and 25 jewels, and beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, the movement is not just a technical marvel—it’s also a visual one.

Classic Luminor DNA in Goldtech

Encased in a 44 mm cushion-shaped case, the PAM01631 remains unmistakably Panerai. Crafted from the brand’s proprietary Goldtech alloy—a luxurious blend of gold enriched with copper—it radiates warmth and sophistication while maintaining the bold presence the Luminor collection is known for.

Sapphire crystal on both the front and caseback reveals the mechanical spectacle within, while the iconic crown-protecting bridge and 100 meters of water resistance ensure it remains true to its tool-watch DNA.

A Dial That Tells More Than Time

The skeletonized dial is where this watch truly comes alive.

Designed to showcase the intricate Calibre beneath, it becomes a stage for mechanical storytelling. Black bridges create contrast and depth, while Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock, along with baton markers, appear suspended—mounted from the rear and filled with Super-LumiNova for optimal legibility.

The central gold hands glide above this architectural composition, joined by a date window at 3 o’clock, a power reserve indicator between 3 and 6, and a small-seconds subdial at 9.

Every glance reveals a new detail—this is not just a dial, but an experience.

Versatility Meets Luxury

Completing the watch is a black crocodile leather strap paired with a Goldtech folding clasp, reinforcing its luxurious character. For added versatility, Panerai includes an additional rubber strap, allowing the wearer to transition seamlessly between refined elegance and sporty functionality.

Limited and Extraordinary

Limited to just 200 numbered pieces, the Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631 is not merely rare—it is a statement. A statement that innovation still has a place in traditional watchmaking, and that pushing boundaries can result in something truly extraordinary.

Price is available upon request—but for collectors and enthusiasts alike, this is one of those pieces where the value goes far beyond numbers.

Read more here.

General Specifications:

Brand: Panerai

Model: Luminor 31 Giorni

Reference: PAM01631

Dial: Openworked with black bridges

Case Material: Goldtech

Case Dimensions: 44 mm Diameter

Crystal: Sapphire glass

Case Back: Titanium with sapphire lass

Water Resistance: 100 Meters

Strap: Black crocodile leather strap with a Goldtech folding clasp, plus a rubber strap

Calibre: P.2031/S

Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve indicator

Winding: Hand-wound

Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 Vph)

Jewels: 25

Components: 276

Power Reserve: 31 Days

Price: Upon request

Availability: Now

Limited Edition: Yes, 200 numbered pieces

Breguet_TraditionSecondeRétrograde&TraditionGMT_1100x667_1

April 1 2026

Breguet Refreshes The Tradition Line With New Seconde Rétrograde & GMT References

MRSTATELESS BREGUET, NEW RELEASES 2026, Diamond-Set, Enamel, GMT, Openworked Dial, Platinum, Retrograde Seconds, Rose Gold, White Gold 0

Breguet continues to reinforce its legacy in classical haute horology with new additions to its celebrated Tradition collection for 2026. Deeply rooted in the aesthetic codes established by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the Tradition line remains one of the maison’s most distinctive offerings, combining historical inspiration with a technically expressive architecture.

This year, the collection welcomes fresh interpretations of two emblematic references: the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde and the Tradition GMT. Both models retain the line’s signature openworked dial layout while introducing new materials, colors, and refined complications.

Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde

The new Tradition Seconde Rétrograde arrives in four new executions, each emphasizing the collection’s mechanical character and refined finishing.

Among the highlights is the reference 7037PT/N9/5V6, presented in a 38 mm platinum case with a thickness of 12.70 mm. Its proportions remain elegant and highly wearable, making it well-suited for formal wear while offering a far more technical visual identity than a conventional dress watch.

The watch is powered by the manual-winding Calibre 505 SR, a movement specifically designed around the Tradition collection’s hallmark architecture. Rather than hiding the mechanical components beneath the dial, Breguet places key elements on the front side of the watch. The gear train and balance assembly dominate the lower half of the dial, creating a visually layered and architectural display.

This openworked layout is contrasted by a black background finish, which enhances the metallic textures of the exposed movement components. At the upper portion sits an off-centred Grand Feu enamel subdial in black for the hours and minutes, featuring the brand’s unmistakable classical styling.

Positioned at 9 o’clock, the retrograde seconds display adds dynamic motion to the dial. Instead of rotating continuously, the hand travels along an arc before snapping back to its starting point every minute, reinforcing the mechanical sophistication of the piece.

Alongside the platinum version, Breguet also introduces a 38 mm white gold variant with a blue dial, offering a cooler and more contemporary interpretation of the model. The collection is further expanded with a 37 mm white gold edition featuring a diamond-set bezel, aimed at collectors seeking a more jewelry-inspired execution, while a 40 mm rose gold version with a grey reverse-salmon display adds warmth and vintage character to the lineup.

Each variation offers a distinct personality while preserving the same recognizable Tradition design language and retrograde seconds complication.

Breguet, Tradition Seconde Rétrograde, 7037BB/YB/5V6 (white gold), 7037PT/N9/5V6 (platinum), 7097BR/GB/3WU (rose gold), 7038BB/N9/7V6 D0 (diamond bezel). White Grand Feu enamel / Black aventurine glass dial, 18K white gold (38 mm), 18K rose gold (40 mm) / 950 platinum (38 mm) / 18K rhodium-plated white gold with diamond-set bezel (37 mm) case, 37 / 38 / 40 mm diameter, 11.60 / 12.70 / 11.80 mm thickness, sapphire crystal, 30 meters water resistance. Rubber strap with a gold pin buckle (white gold, platinum) / calf leather strap with a gold pin buckle (rose gold) / fabric strap withe gold diamond-set pin buckle (white gold). Calibre 505 SR, automatic movement, hour, minutes, retrgrade seconds, 3 HZ, 50 hours of power reserve. Price: CHF 43,200 (rose gold), CHF 45,200 (white gold), CHF 49,700 (platinum), CHF 50,600 (diamond-set bezel), plus VAT.

Breguet Tradition GMT 7067

The new Tradition GMT 7067 expands the collection’s travel-oriented offering with a refined dual-time complication and a fresh dial execution.

Housed in a 40 mm platinum case, the watch measures 12.10 mm thick, making it slightly slimmer than the Seconde Rétrograde despite its larger diameter. The case features two crowns, allowing independent adjustment of the local and home time displays.

The most significant addition is the second time zone indication, positioned off-centre toward 7 o’clock. Executed in black with contrasting Arabic numerals, it provides clear legibility while integrating naturally into the Tradition’s asymmetrical layout.

Replacing the retrograde seconds display found on the 7037 is a day/night indicator, which works in conjunction with the home time display and improves practicality for frequent travellers.

One of the standout novelties for 2026 is the dial color. Breguet introduces the first fumé green Grand Feu enamel dial for the Tradition GMT, bringing a contemporary visual twist to the otherwise classically inspired collection.

Another first for this model line is the use of a rubber strap, finished with green stitching that complements the dial tones. This modern choice enhances everyday comfort and gives the watch a more versatile character compared to the traditional leather straps typically associated with the collection.

Powering the watch is the manual-winding Calibre 507DRF, delivering a 50-hour power reserve. As with the rest of the Tradition collection, the movement’s construction places many of its most visually appealing components on the dial side, preserving a clean and relatively understated appearance through the sapphire caseback.

Breguet, Tradition GMT, 7067PT/NM/5W6 (Arabic numerals), 7067PT/NM/5W6 01 (eastern Arabic numerals). Green-gradient Grand Feu enamel / Black openworked dial, 950 platinum case, 40 mm diameter, 12.10 mm thickness, sapphire crystal, 30 meters water resistance. Rubber strap with a platinum pin buckle. Calibre 507 DRF, hand-wound movement, hour, minutes, second time zone, day-night indicator, 3 HZ, 50 hours of power reserve. Price: CHF 62,800 plus VAT.

GirardPerregaux_MinuteRepeaterFlyingBridges_1100x667_1

March 12 2026

Girard-Perregaux Introduces The Highly Complicated Minute Repeater Flying Bridges

MRSTATELESS GIRARD-PERREGAUX, NEW RELEASES 2026, Minute Repeater, Openworked Dial, Pink Gold, Tourbillon 0

Swiss haute horlogerie manufacture Girard-Perregaux expands its collection of high complications with the impressive Minute Repeater Flying Bridges, a new in-house creation that combines some of the most sophisticated elements of traditional watchmaking. The timepiece brings together a minute repeater, a flying tourbillon, and the brand’s distinctive bridges architecture, showcasing both mechanical complexity and contemporary design.

This remarkable watch highlights Girard-Perregaux’s expertise in combining heritage complications with modern aesthetics, placing the movement itself at the center of attention.

Case and Design

The Minute Repeater Flying Bridges comes in a substantial 46 mm case crafted from 18K pink gold, with a thickness of 17.90 mm. The case design emphasizes transparency and depth thanks to the presence of box-shaped sapphire crystals on both the front and the caseback, allowing a clear view of the intricate mechanics inside.

As expected from a minute repeater, the watch features a sliding activation lever positioned on the side of the case opposite the crown. When activated, the mechanism chimes the time on demand, striking hours, quarters, and minutes through a system of finely tuned gongs and hammers.

Although the watch is primarily a highly complicated dress piece, the careful integration of the repeater lever into the case contributes to a water resistance rating of 30 meters. Completing the contemporary look, the watch is paired with a textured black rubber strap secured by a triple-folding clasp, offering a modern contrast to the traditional complication.

A Dial Defined by the Movement

Rather than using a conventional dial, the movement itself forms the display. This openworked layout allows the wearer to fully appreciate the architecture of the caliber and the brand’s iconic Flying Bridges, which appear to suspend key components while maintaining a sense of lightness and visual balance.

Time is indicated by red gold hands, complemented by a red gold inner bezel ring with matching hour markers. Both the hands and the indexes are filled with black luminous material, ensuring that the watch remains legible even in low-light conditions.

At the lower portion of the display sits the flying tourbillon, which also incorporates a small seconds indicator integrated into the tourbillon cage, adding both functionality and visual dynamism to the movement.

The Manufacture Caliber GP09530-2198

Powering the watch is the In-house caliber GP09530-2198, an exceptionally complex movement composed of 475 individual components. The production and finishing of each caliber require approximately 440 hours of work, reflecting the extensive handcraftsmanship involved in its creation.

A large portion of this time is dedicated to traditional finishing techniques, including anglage, with more than 1,300 interior angles meticulously polished by hand. As a tribute to this artisanal work, each watch features a small engraved plate bearing the initials of the watchmaker who assembled the movement, emphasizing the human touch behind every piece.

The movement combines several advanced mechanical elements. It incorporates a minute repeater mechanism, a flying tourbillon, and an automatic winding system powered by a micro-rotor. The architecture also features the brand’s recognizable three bridges with arrow-shaped ends, which have long been a signature design element of Girard-Perregaux.

The white gold micro-rotor, positioned on the reverse side of the movement opposite the main barrel, contributes to the watch’s power reserve of approximately 60 hours. The movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), ensuring reliable timekeeping alongside its complex functionality.

Engineering for Sound Quality

Because the minute repeater is designed to produce audible chimes, Girard-Perregaux paid particular attention to optimizing the acoustic performance of the watch. The titanium mainplate is attached directly to the gold case, a construction that helps improve the transmission of sound.

The gongs encircle the movement and remain visible from the front, highlighting the mechanical complexity of the repeater system. Nearby, two hammers positioned on either side of the brand’s logo strike the gongs to produce the distinct tones that indicate the time. The use of box-shaped sapphire crystals on both sides of the watch also contributes to sound resonance, helping to enhance the clarity of the chimes.

Exclusivity and Price

As is typical for such high complications, production of the Minute Repeater Flying Bridges will be extremely limited due to the significant time required to manufacture and assemble each movement. While the watch is not officially a limited edition, the complexity of the piece naturally restricts the number of watches that can be produced each year.

The Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Flying Bridges is priced at approximately CHF 564,000, positioning it among the most exclusive creations within the brand’s modern collection.

Audemars Piguet Unveils Three New Perpetual Calendars

MRSTATELESS AUDEMARS PIGUET, NEW RELEASES 2026, Ceramic, Integrated Bracelet, Openworked Dial, Perpetual Calendar, Titanium, White Gold 0

Audemars Piguet expands its latest-generation perpetual calendar collection with the introduction of three new references that emphasize both mechanical transparency and advanced materials. The new releases include the first open-worked interpretations of the brand’s next-generation perpetual calendar, alongside the first Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar crafted entirely in ceramic and powered by the automatic Calibre 7138.

Open-Worked Perpetual Calendars in the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak Collections

Two of the newly introduced models feature open-worked dials that reveal the structure and operation of Audemars Piguet’s Calibre 7139. Originally unveiled in 2025, this movement represents a revised approach to the perpetual calendar complication, designed to improve ergonomics while preserving the traditional mechanical logic of the complication.

Both watches share the same case architecture as their closed-dial counterparts but replace the solid dial with a skeletonized construction. This open-worked layout exposes the calendar mechanism, bridges, and gear trains, allowing the wearer to observe the perpetual calendar components as they function and are adjusted via the crown.

The Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar Openworked is housed in a white gold case combined with a black ceramic mid-case, a defining feature of the Code 11.59 line. The movement is presented in a predominantly rhodium-toned finish, with contrasting hands and calendar indications designed to maintain legibility despite the complexity of the open display.

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked is executed in titanium and incorporates polished accents made from Palladium-based bulk metallic glass on the bezel studs and bracelet links. Rose gold hands and calendar markers provide visual contrast against the monochromatic movement architecture, reinforcing the technical character of the Royal Oak while ensuring clear readability.

First All-Ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

The third release marks the first time Audemars Piguet has paired its latest-generation perpetual calendar movement with a fully ceramic Royal Oak case and bracelet. This model is powered by Calibre 7138 and features a solid dial rather than an open-worked display, offering a more traditional presentation of the complication.

The ceramic components are produced in a deep blue tone developed specifically to match Audemars Piguet’s historic “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” color, originally associated with the Royal Oak’s earliest dials. This darker, more nuanced shade represents a refinement of the brand’s previous blue ceramic executions and aligns closely with the collection’s heritage.

Calibre 7138 and 7139: A New Generation of Perpetual Calendar Movements

At the heart of all three watches are Audemars Piguet’s Calibres 7138 and 7139, which share the same technical foundation, with Calibre 7139 adapted for open-worked configurations. The movements retain the classical “grand lever” perpetual calendar architecture while introducing a modernized user interface.

All calendar indications, including the day, date, month, leap year, and moon phase, can be adjusted exclusively via the crown. This design eliminates the need for traditional case-side correctors and allows for more intuitive operation. A key component of the movement is a 48-tooth program wheel that mechanically encodes the varying lengths of the months across the four-year leap-year cycle. As a result, the calendar will remain accurate until the year 2100, when the Gregorian calendar omits a leap year, at which point the movement can be corrected without requiring disassembly or factory intervention.

Finishing and Manufacturing

The finishing of the new perpetual calendar movements is particularly emphasized in the open-worked versions. Audemars Piguet states that the bridges are initially formed using advanced machining techniques before undergoing extensive hand-finishing. The calibres feature a high number of interior angles, polished bevels, and carefully brushed surfaces, highlighting the complexity of both the design and manufacturing process.

Despite the use of modern production methods, each movement reportedly requires several dozen hours of manual finishing. This combination of contemporary engineering and traditional handcraft reflects Audemars Piguet’s approach to high-end perpetual calendar watchmaking.

Continuing the Evolution of Audemars Piguet’s Perpetual Calendars

With these three new references, Audemars Piguet further develops the perpetual calendar platform introduced in 2025. The open-worked models place the mechanics at the forefront, while the all-ceramic Royal Oak introduces a refined material and historically informed color treatment. Together, these releases underline the brand’s ongoing effort to combine traditional perpetual calendar principles with improved usability and modern design.

Read more here.

General Specifications:

Brand: Audemars Piguet

Model: Code 11.59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked, Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked, Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding

Reference: 26443NB.OO.D002CR.01, 26685XT.OO.1320XT.01, 26674CD.OO.1225CD.01

Dial: Openworked (Code 11.59, Royal Oak openworked), “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” (Royal Oak)

Lume: Yes

Case Material: White gold and black ceramic (Code 11.59), titanium and palladium (Royal Oak openworked), ceramic and titanium (Royal Oak)

Case Dimensions: 41 mm x 10.60 mm (Code 11.59), 41 mm x 9.50 mm (Royal Oak’s)

Crystal: Sapphire Glass

Case Back: Sapphire Glass

Water Resistance: 30 Meters (Code 11.59), 50 meters (Royal Oak’s)

Strap: Alligator leather strap with a white gold clasp (Code 11.59), integrated titanium and palladium / ceramic and titanium bracelet (Royal Oak’s)

Calibre: 7139 (Code 11.59, Royal Oak openworked), 7138 (Royal Oak)

Functions: Hour, minutes, weekly calendar, perpetual calendar, moon phase

Winding: Automatic

Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 Vph)

Power Reserve: 55 Hours

Price: CHF 118,000 (Code 11.59), CHF 180,200 (Royal Oak openworked), CHF 133,900 (Royal Oak)

Limited Edition: No

Availability: Now

Hermes_SlimdHermesSqueletteLune_1100x667_6

January 29 2026

Two New Interpretations Of The Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune

MRSTATELESS HERMÈS, NEW RELEASES 2026, Moon Phase, Openworked Dial, Platinum, Titanium 0

The Slim d’Hermès collection has been part of the brand’s watchmaking portfolio since 2015, characterized by restrained proportions, architectural lugs, and a distinctive typographic identity developed exclusively for Hermès. Designed as a modern dress watch, the line has gradually expanded to include more complex mechanical expressions while preserving its minimalist aesthetic. The Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune represents one of the most technically expressive executions within the collection, combining openworked construction with a moon-phase display.

For this latest release, Hermès introduces two new versions of the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune, offered in platinum and titanium. While the materials and finishes differ significantly, both models share the same underlying architecture and mechanical specifications.

The case measures 39.50 mm in diameter and remains notably slim at 8.80 mm thick. Its profile is defined by slender, angular lugs and a narrow bezel that emphasize the watch’s refined proportions. The titanium version features a bead-blasted case and caseback, contrasted by a polished bezel treated with anthracite DLC. The platinum model adopts a fully polished finish throughout, underscoring its more traditional character.

Each edition features a distinct color treatment that extends across the dial, movement, and strap. The titanium model is paired with grey-toned elements and a movement finished in Hermès’ “Vert d’Eau” shade, while the platinum version uses blue accents combined with silver-toned components. These color schemes are complemented by matching calfskin or alligator leather straps—grey for titanium and blue for platinum.

The dial is fully openworked, revealing the underlying movement architecture. Developed in collaboration with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, the skeletonized construction showcases curved bridge cutouts, bead-blasted surfaces, and diamond-polished bevels. The moon-phase display is positioned at 6 o’clock and features a double moon indication rendered in a realistic style. Time is displayed via slim baton hands treated in black gold, maintaining legibility despite the open dial structure.

Powering the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune is a self-winding movement produced by Vaucher, based on the same micro-rotor architecture used in the time-only Slim d’Hermès models. The movement operates at a frequency of 3Hz and offers a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The micro-rotor construction allows the watch to maintain its slim profile while providing an unobstructed view of the movement through the sapphire caseback.

Both versions of the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune are available as part of the permanent collection. The titanium model is priced at GBP 20,130 when paired with an alligator leather strap, or GBP 19,980 on a calf leather strap. The platinum version is positioned higher, with a retail price of GBP 34,040 on alligator leather or GBP 33,890 when delivered on a calf leather strap.

Read more here.

General Specifications:

Brand: Hermès

Model: Slim d’Hermes Squelette Lune

Dial: Openworked with anthracite or blue bridges

Case Material: Grade 5 titanium, platinum

Case Dimensions: 39.50 mm Diameter, 8.80 mm thickness

Crystal: Sapphire glass

Case Back: Sapphire glass

Water Resistance: 30 Meters

Strap: Grey/blue calfskin or alligator leather strap with a titanium/platinum pin buckle

Calibre: H1953

Functions: Hours, minutes, double moon phase

Winding: Automatic with a micro-rotor

Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 Vph)

Jewels: 29

Components: 178

Power Reserve: 48 hours

Price: GPB 20,130 (titanium on an alligator strap), GBP 19,980 (titanium on a calf strap), GBP 34,040 (platinum on an alligator strap), GBP 33,890 (platinum on a calf strap)

Availability: Now

Limited Edition: No

HMC_EndeavourTourbillonSkeleton_1100x667_1

January 28 2026

H. Moser & Cie. Brings Openworked Tourbillon Mechanics To The Endeavour

MRSTATELESS H. MOSER, NEW RELEASES 2026, Openworked Dial, Red Gold, Tourbillon 0

H. Moser & Cie. continues to raise the technical scope of its Endeavour collection with the introduction of the Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton, a model that combines classical case design with a fully openworked automatic tourbillon movement. The watch marks the first time the manufacture’s Calibre HMC 814—previously seen in the Streamliner collection—has been housed within the Endeavour line.

Case and Design

The Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton is presented in a 40 mm 5N red gold case with a total thickness of 10.70 mm, maintaining the slim proportions characteristic of the collection. The case features a polished concave bezel, a fluted crown, and gently curved flanks with alternating finishes. Vertically brushed surfaces are contrasted by a polished groove running along the caseband, a signature design element of the Endeavour family.

Sapphire crystals are fitted on both the front and back, allowing unobstructed views of the openworked movement from either side.

Skeletonised Architecture

The dial side is defined by its fully skeletonised construction, emphasizing symmetry and transparency. The anthracite-toned bridges and main plate are decorated with straight, drawn strokes, creating a structured visual framework for the movement. Applied hour markers and leaf-shaped hands are gold-plated, providing contrast against the darker movement components and supporting legibility despite the open design.

Positioned at 6 o’clock, the one-minute flying tourbillon dominates the display. It is fitted with a double hairspring, manufactured in-house by Precision Engineering AG, H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company. The use of paired hairsprings improves isochronism by reducing positional errors.

Calibre HMC 814

Powering the watch is the In-house Calibre HMC 814, an automatic movement derived from the HMC 804. Unlike the brand’s HMC 811 tourbillon skeleton movement, the HMC 814 was selected for its slimmer construction, making it better suited to the refined proportions of the Endeavour case.

The movement operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) and offers a 72-hour power reserve. Winding is handled by a bidirectional pawl winding system, and the calibre consists of 167 components and 28 jewels. The skeletonisation extends to the barrel, allowing the mainspring to be seen in operation.

Finishing includes polished bevels and carefully executed surface treatments throughout the movement, consistent with H. Moser & Cie.’s contemporary approach to haute horlogerie.

Strap and Availability

The Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton is paired with a dark brown nubuck alligator leather strap, reinforcing the watch’s elegant character. The model is part of H. Moser & Cie.’s permanent collection and is priced at CHF 85,400.

Read more here.

General Specifications:

Brand: H. Moser & Cie

Model: Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton

Reference: 1814-0400

Dial: Openworked with anthracite bridges

Case Material: 18K 5N red gold

Case Dimensions: 40 mm Diameter, 10.70 mm thickness

Crystal: Sapphire Glass

Case Back: Sapphire Glass

Water Resistance: 30 Meters

Strap: Dark brown alligator nubuck leather strap with a hand-stitching and 5N red gold pin buckle

Calibre: HMC-814

Functions: Hours, minutes, one-minute tourbillon

Winding: Automatic

Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 Vph)

Jewels: 28

Components: 167

Power Reserve: 72 Hours

Price: CHF 85,400

Limited Edition: No

December 1 2025

Engineering Precision: The Breguet Expérimentale 1 In Detail

Ricardo Amaral BREGUET, NEW RELEASES 2025, Gold, Limited Edition, Openworked Dial, Regulator, Tourbillon 0

Breguet’s legacy is defined by innovation—from the invention of the tourbillon to advances in shock protection and high-precision mechanisms. With the introduction of the Expérimentale 1, the manufacture once again demonstrates its commitment to pushing horological engineering forward. This new creation combines magnetic technology, a high-frequency escapement, and an adaptive tourbillon into one of the brand’s most technically sophisticated watches yet.

A Magnetic Architecture Designed to Reduce Friction

At the center of the Expérimentale 1 is a balance assembly that replaces traditional contact surfaces with a carefully calibrated magnetic structure. In a conventional balance staff, jewel bearings support the oscillating organ, and even though these bearings generate minimal friction, they still rely on physical contact. Breguet reimagines this construction by eliminating the upper bearing collar and using two opposing magnets to maintain the balance staff in perfect alignment.

This configuration reduces friction dramatically, allowing the balance to oscillate with greater freedom, improving the movement’s efficiency and decreasing wear on components. Because energy loss is minimized, the design supports the extremely high 10 Hz (72,000 vph) operating frequency that defines the performance of this movement.

A Tourbillon Built for High Frequency

The Expérimentale 1 incorporates a tourbillon specifically engineered to function at this 10 Hz rhythm, a remarkable achievement in modern watchmaking. Almost all tourbillons operate at far lower rates, typically around 2.5 Hz, because increasing the frequency places substantial demands on both materials and energy. Breguet addresses the technical challenges by using non-magnetic materials such as silicon in key components, ensuring that the magnetic architecture does not interfere with the regulation of the tourbillon.

High-frequency tourbillons require stable torque to maintain accuracy. When the mainspring approaches the lower end of its power reserve, torque naturally decreases, which can affect the performance of the tourbillon. To counter this, Breguet equips the Expérimentale 1 with a mechanism that decouples the tourbillon when torque drops below an optimal threshold. This allows the watch to maintain stable timekeeping even as available energy diminishes.
The result is a system that behaves much like a constant-force device, preserving amplitude and accuracy. According to Breguet’s own internal standards, the movement achieves what it categorizes as “scientific” precision, corresponding to a performance target of approximately ±1 second per day.

To sustain the demands of the high-frequency escapement and the tourbillon, the Expérimentale 1 uses a patented twin-barrel configuration arranged over two levels and connected in series. This architecture ensures an even, stable flow of power throughout the movement. The result is a long and reliable 72-hour power reserve, impressive given the amount of energy required to maintain a 10 Hz tourbillon.
Despite its technical complexity, the movement remains manually wound, and the extended autonomy ensures that the watch can rest through an entire weekend without stopping.

A Technical Dial With Deep Architectural Layers

The front of the watch takes the form of a three-level mechanical display, emphasizing visibility of the movement’s architecture. The Expérimentale 1 uses a regulator-style layout in which the tourbillon at 12 o’clock also serves as the seconds indicator, the central hand displays the minutes, and the hours appear on a separate subdial positioned at 6 o’clock.

The dial structure blends blued components with rose gold plates, polished screws, and visible rubies, while white enamel rings create a clear visual framework for reading the time. The composition introduces depth and dimension, allowing each mechanism to maintain a distinct visual presence.

A Modern Interpretation of Breguet’s Marine Aesthetic

The watch is housed in a 43.50 mm case crafted from Breguet’s proprietary 2025 gold alloy. While the design draws from the Marine collection, certain elements—especially the sharply faceted lugs—give the Expérimentale 1 a more contemporary and technical appearance than the brand’s traditional offerings.
The exhibition caseback reveals a symmetrical arrangement of components, decorated with frosted surfaces and precise finishing standards that align with Breguet’s commitment to haute horlogerie craftsmanship.

Limited Edition

The Breguet Expérimentale 1 is produced in a limited series of 75 pieces, priced at CHF 320,000.

Our Take

While the watch’s technical spectacularity clearly takes center stage, it does not lose the identity that has defined Breguet’s 250 series. Viewed with the right perspective, its design and mechanics reflect the essence of the brand. Its complexity may feel overwhelming for a layperson—and at times even for seasoned collectors—and reading the time can be challenging, yet the brilliance of the watch shines through, rewarding those willing to explore its intricacies.

More information at www.breguet.com.

General Specifications:

Brand: Breguet

Model: Experimentale 1

Reference: E001BH/S9/5ZV

Dial: Openworked

Case Material: 18k Breguet gold

Case Dimensions: 43.50 mm Diameter, 13.30 mm thickness

Crystal: Sapphire Glass

Case Back: Sapphire Glass

Water Resistance: 100 Meters

Strap: Blue rubber strap with a 18k Breguet gold pin buckle

Caliber: 7250

Dimensions: 33.80 mm Diameter, 6.30 mm thickness

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds by tourbillon

Winding: Hand wound

Frequency: 10 Hz (72,000 Vph)

Jewels: 37

Components: 266

Power Reserve: 72 Hours

Price: CHF 320,000

Limited Edition: Yes, 75 pieces

Hublot_BigBangUnicoWinterEditions_1100x667_1

November 25 2025

Hublot Freezes The Season With Two New Big Bang Unico Winter Models

MRSTATELESS HUBLOT, NEW RELEASES 2025, Ceramic, Chronograph, Limited Edition, Openworked Dial, Sapphire, Sport Watch 0

Hublot is embracing the colder season with two striking new interpretations of its Big Bang Unico, both designed to capture the crisp, icy aesthetic of winter. The Big Bang Unico Winter Sapphire and the Big Bang Unico Winter Titanium Ceramic highlight the brand’s continued expertise in advanced materials while showcasing the full capabilities of its in-house Unico chronograph movement.

The Big Bang Unico collection was originally developed around the HUB1280 Unico calibre, Hublot’s proprietary flyback column-wheel chronograph movement. This modern movement offers a three-day power reserve and showcases its mechanics openly on both the dial side and through the caseback. Comprising 354 components and fitted with 43 jewels, the HUB1280 runs at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), includes a silicon escapement, and incorporates five patented innovations. A grey ruthenium-plated tungsten rotor shaped like a snowflake adds a seasonal detail to the movement, while light blue bridges reinforce the winter-inspired theme.

The Big Bang Unico Winter Sapphire is defined by its full sapphire crystal construction. The entire 42mm case, including the lugs, case middle, dial elements, and exhibition caseback, is crafted from transparent polished sapphire, providing an unobstructed view of the movement and its structural components. The watch measures 14.5mm in thickness and offers a water-resistance of 50 metres, reflecting the technical challenge of working with sapphire at this scale. Titanium components are used for the pushers, screws, and the patented One Click system, which allows effortless strap changes. This version is limited to only 30 pieces.

The second model, the Big Bang Unico Winter Titanium Ceramic, combines microblasted titanium with contrasting winter-white ceramic. The 42 mm case features titanium as its primary material, while the polar white ceramic bezel and ceramic inserts along the case sides emphasise the signature Hublot sandwich construction. Rounded pushers, protective bumpers, and a screw-down crown maintain the familiar Big Bang Unico silhouette. Thanks to its more conventional material structure, this edition achieves a water-resistance rating of 100 metres and is limited to 200 pieces.

Both models share the same openworked dial design, exposing key elements of the Unico movement beneath. Light blue accents highlight the chronograph indications and surrounding details, enhancing the winter character of the watches. The column wheel is visible at the 6 o’clock position, while the date display is integrated within the 60-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock using a translucent disc to preserve the skeletonised aesthetic. The hands, Arabic numerals, and indices are all treated with Super-LumiNova to ensure strong legibility in low-light conditions.

Each watch is delivered with a white rubber and white calfskin strap, accompanied by an additional white rubber strap paired with blue calfskin. Both straps utilise the One Click system for quick and secure interchangeability.

The Big Bang Unico Winter Sapphire is priced at € 80,000 and will be produced in a limited run of 30 pieces. The Big Bang Unico Winter Titanium Ceramic comes in at € 26,200, with 200 pieces available.

More details at www.hublot.com.

General Specifications:

Brand: Hublot

Model: Big Bang Unico Winter Sapphire, Big Bang Unico Winter Titanium Ceramic

Reference: 441.JX.429B.VR (sapphire edition), 441.NH.429B.VR (titanium ceramic edition)

Dial: Openworked with light blue details

Case Material: Sapphire, titanium ceramic

Case Dimensions: 42 mm Diameter, 14.50 mm thickness

Crystal: Sapphire Glass

Case Back: Sapphire Glass

Water Resistance: 100 Meters

Strap: White rubber and calfskin strap with light blue stitching, plus a white rubber and blue calfskin strap with a titanium deployant clasp

Caliber: HUB1280

Functions: Hours, minutes, small second, date, flyback chronograph

Winding: Automatic

Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 Vph)

Jewels: 43

Components: 354

Power Reserve: 72 Hours

Price: € 80,000 (sapphire edition), € 26,200 (titanium ceramic edition)

Limited Edition: Yes, 30 pieces (sapphire edition) and 200 pieces (titanium ceramic edition)

ChristopherWard_C1BelCantoLumière_1100x667_2

November 13 2025

Christopher Ward Lights Up The Bel Canto With The New Lumière Edition

MRSTATELESS CHRISTOPHER WARD, NEW RELEASES 2025, Chimes, Openworked Dial 0

Christopher Ward continues to evolve its acclaimed Bel Canto series with the introduction of the C1 Bel Canto Lumière, a striking new interpretation of the brand’s award-winning chiming watch. Known for bringing the rare hour-striking complication to an accessible price point, the Bel Canto Lumière adds a bold, contemporary twist through innovative materials, glowing aesthetics, and thoughtful engineering.

A New Dimension of Light and Sound

The centerpiece of the Bel Canto Lumière remains its open-worked hour striker module, which visually and audibly defines the collection. The mechanical drama of the striking mechanism is beautifully displayed on the dial, offering enthusiasts a view of the hammer and spring as they perform their hourly chime. Despite the visual complexity, the design maintains a clean and architectural layout, showcasing both functionality and refinement.

The new Lumière edition enhances this mechanical spectacle with a smoked sapphire crystal dial, allowing light to play across the dial components. Around it runs a luminous blue-green chapter ring crafted from Globolight—a ceramic material infused with Super-LumiNova. This glowing ring gives the Lumière its distinctive personality, illuminating the dial once the lights dim.

Innovative Use of Lume and Depth

Unlike traditional lume applications, Christopher Ward uses multiple layers of Super-LumiNova arranged in a sunburst pattern across the lower dial surface. By day, these elements present subtle blue tones, but at night the scene transforms dramatically. The upper segment of the dial glows green, while the lower section emits a cool blue, creating a dynamic two-tone luminescence.

The raised box-form sapphire crystal—first seen on the Bel Canto Classic—amplifies the watch’s visual depth, allowing light to catch the dial’s mechanical features from various angles. The result is a timepiece that feels sculptural and futuristic, while remaining firmly grounded in horological craftsmanship.

Technical Construction and Movement

At 41 mm in diameter, the Grade 5 titanium case offers strength, lightness, and excellent wearability. The polished and brushed surfaces highlight the watch’s sculpted profile while keeping the weight minimal.

Powering the Bel Canto Lumière is the FS01 chiming module, mounted on the reliable Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. This movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and provides a 38-hour power reserve. The chiming components—including the hammer and spring—are hand-finished by Atelier de Polissage Jurassien (APJ) in Switzerland, ensuring a high level of craftsmanship.

The use of the Sellita SW200-1 ensures both accessibility and practicality: it provides ample torque for the striking complication while remaining straightforward to service, keeping ownership costs manageable—one of the hallmarks of Christopher Ward’s philosophy.

Luminous Strap Options

The Bel Canto Lumière offers three distinct bracelet and strap configurations. Two titanium bracelets are available: a three-link Bader bracelet and a five-link Consort bracelet, both crafted from Grade 2 titanium to match the lightweight case. However, the most eye-catching option is undoubtedly the luminous Aquaflex Lume rubber strap, designed to complement the glowing dial.

By day, it appears as a textured white strap, but when darkness falls, its edges emit a radiant blue glow that mirrors the chapter ring’s illumination. This harmonious design creates a continuous ring of light around the wrist, emphasizing the watch’s theme of luminescent energy.

Pricing and Availability

The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Lumière is available now through the brand’s official channels. It is priced at € 4,615 when fitted with the Aquaflex Lume rubber strap. Those who prefer a titanium bracelet can choose between the Bader bracelet for € 4,885 or the Consort bracelet for € 4,965. Regardless of the configuration, each option maintains the collection’s balance between cutting-edge design, premium finishing, and impressive technical value.

A Modern Expression of Accessible Haute Horlogerie

With the C1 Bel Canto Lumière, Christopher Ward proves once again that technical innovation and creative design can coexist within reach of a broader audience. The watch’s glowing elements, transparent dial architecture, and refined chiming module make it not only a visual statement but also a celebration of modern watchmaking ingenuity.

This luminous evolution of the Bel Canto captures both light and sound in perfect harmony—an avant-garde reminder that mechanical artistry need not be confined to traditional aesthetics or luxury price tags.

Read more here.

General Specifications:

Brand: Christopher Ward

Model: C1 Bel Canto Lumière

Dial: Openworked with light blue base and Super-LumiNova

Case Material: Grade 5 titanium

Case Dimensions: 41 mm diameter, 13.65 mm thickness, 48 mm lug-to-lug

Crystal: Sapphire glass

Case Back: Grade 5 titanium

Water Resistance: 30 Meters

Strap: White Aquaflex Lume rubber strap with a folding clasp, Grade 2 titanium Bader bracelet with a folding clasp, Grade 2 titanium Consort bracelet with a folding clasp

Caliber: Sellita SW200-1 with FS01 module by Frank Stelzer

Functions: Hours, minutes, chimes

Winding: Automatic

Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 Vph)

Jewels: 29

Power Reserve: 38 Hours

Price: € 4,615 (on a rubber strap), € 4,885 (on a Bader bracelet), € 4,965 (on a Consort bracelet)

Availability: Now

Limited Edition: No

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