Rolex Perpetual Padellone: The Return Of The Annual Calendar
Rolex has introduced the Perpetual Padellone, a new precious-metal watch that brings two complications long absent from the brand’s contemporary collection: an annual calendar and a moonphase. It is also the second model to join the Perpetual family, following the 1908.
While its design draws inspiration from Rolex’s historical ref. 8171, the Padellone is primarily a showcase for a completely new movement and several modern mechanical solutions. At its centre is the new calibre 7190, an automatic movement operating at 5Hz and incorporating Rolex’s latest escapement and regulating technologies.
The calendar takes centre stage
The most important feature of the Padellone is its calendar mechanism.
Rather than using separate sub-dials for each indication, Rolex has arranged the information across the dial. The day and month appear through two apertures at 12 o’clock, while a blued central hand indicates the date against a scale around the edge of the dial.
The system automatically accounts for the different lengths of the months, including those with 30 and 31 days. This means that the wearer only needs to make a correction once a year, when February ends and March begins.
Rolex has also developed an instantaneous switching mechanism. At midnight, the day, date and month indications advance together in a fraction of a second. The mechanism is the subject of a patent application and adds an unusually dynamic element to the operation of the calendar.
Four correctors positioned around the case provide direct adjustment of the calendar and moonphase indications. Importantly, these can be operated at any time without compromising the movement.
A moonphase with an unusual construction
At six o’clock, the moonphase provides the watch with one of its most distinctive visual elements.
The display uses a blue enamel disc that makes one complete rotation every 29.53 days, matching the length of the lunar cycle. The representations of the full and new moons are made from meteorite, with the new moon receiving a dark-blue PVD treatment.
Both moon discs feature pad-printed faces, a detail that references the historical Padellone and gives the otherwise contemporary watch a direct connection to its predecessor.
The combination of enamel and meteorite makes the moonphase considerably more elaborate than a conventional printed lunar display.
Calibre 7190: a new Rolex movement
The technical foundation of the watch is the calibre 7190, developed and manufactured entirely by Rolex.
The movement operates at 5Hz, or 36,000 vibrations per hour, and incorporates several technologies already associated with Rolex’s newest generation of movements. These include the Dynapulse escapement, a Syloxi silicon hairspring and a ceramic balance staff.
The calibre is related technologically to the 7135 introduced with the Land-Dweller, but Rolex has developed additional architecture for the Padellone’s calendar functions.
One of the movement’s key innovations is the Haplos system. Rolex states that the annual-calendar programming is achieved using only two additional components connected to the date mechanism, providing a compact solution to the problem of differentiating between 30- and 31-day months.
The movement can also be viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback. Its finishing includes Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges and a cut-out yellow-gold oscillating weight.
According to Rolex, the calibre is associated with 30 patent applications, two of which are exclusive to the Padellone.
39mm and two precious metals
The watch itself measures 39 mm, placing it within a relatively restrained modern case size despite the considerable mechanical complexity inside.
Rolex offers the Padellone in 18ct Everose gold and 950 platinum. Both versions share the same overall case architecture, including elongated curved lugs and a distinctive bezel combining a domed upper section with fine fluting around its lower portion.
The Everose models use an intense white grained dial, while the platinum version receives the familiar Rolex ice-blue dial.
The prominent crown is accompanied by four discreet correctors integrated into the caseband, keeping the external appearance relatively clean despite the number of functions that can be adjusted.
Three ways to wear it
There are three configurations in the collection.
The Everose gold Padellone can be fitted with either a brown alligator leather strap or Rolex’s Settimo bracelet. The platinum version comes on a matte black alligator leather strap.
The Settimo bracelet consists of seven small, slightly curved links and was previously introduced with the 1908. On the Padellone, it provides an alternative to the more traditional leather-strap configurations.
The choice of precious metal also changes the character of the watch considerably, with the warm tone of Everose gold contrasting with the cooler combination of platinum and ice blue.
Rolex Perpetual Padellone: price and availability
The Rolex Perpetual Padellone is available through Rolex boutiques in the three configurations.
The prices are CHF 52,500 for the Everose gold model with brown alligator leather strap, CHF 59,000 for the platinum model with black alligator leather strap, and CHF 64,800 for the Everose gold version with the Settimo bracelet.
Our Opinion
The Perpetual Padellone is an important addition to Rolex’s current collection because it moves the Perpetual line beyond the aesthetics of the 1908 and into considerably more complicated mechanical territory.
Its appeal is not based solely on the vintage-inspired case. The annual calendar, instantaneous switching system, enamel moonphase and meteorite lunar discs are supported by a completely new movement that combines Rolex’s latest technical architecture with a complication rarely associated with the modern brand.
The 39mm case also keeps the watch relatively compact for a precious-metal calendar watch, while the three configurations allow Rolex to present the same mechanical concept in distinctly different forms.
With the 1908 establishing the Perpetual collection and the Padellone adding a substantially more complicated movement, Rolex has now created a clear platform for watches that sit apart from its familiar Oyster and Professional families.
Read more here.
General Specifications:
Brand: Rolex
Model: Perpetual Padellone
Reference: 53505 (Everose, 53506 (Platinum)
Dial: White, ice blue
Case Material: Everose gold, platinum
Case Dimensions: 39 mm Diameter, 12.20 mm thickness, 45 mm lug-to-lug
Crystal: Sapphire glass
Case Back: Oystersteel
Water Resistance: 100 Meters
Strap: Everose gold Settimo bracelet with folding clasp, brown / black alligator leather strap with folding clasp
Calibre: 7190
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month, moon phase
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 Vph)
Power Reserve: 66 Hours
Price: CHF 52,500 (Everose gold on leather strap), CHF59,000 (platinum on a leather strap), CHF 64,800 (Everose gold on Settimo bracelet)
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No
