Tag: Moon Phase

After much anticipation and leaks, Patek Philippe has officially launched the Cubitus collection, marking its first new line in 25 years. The new sports watch collection includes three models, each bringing unique features to the table. However, opinions are divided as to whether this latest offering lives up to the high standards set by the iconic Nautilus and Aquanaut collections.

Reference 5821/1A: The Green Steel Variant

The new Cubitus Reference 5821/1A sports a two-part 45mm stainless steel square case with softened corners, paired with an integrated bracelet reminiscent of the Nautilus. The bracelet includes a micro-adjustment clasp borrowed from the 5811G model, making it both functional and luxurious.

The green sunburst dial is striking, featuring the familiar horizontal ribbed pattern seen on the Nautilus, along with baton hour markers and luminescent white gold hands. The date window is neatly placed next to the crown, also in white gold.

Inside, the watch is powered by the Caliber 26-330 S C, offering improved hacking seconds, operating at 28,800 Vph, and a power reserve of 45 hours. The timepiece is priced at CHF 35,000 and will be available starting today, October 18, 2024.

Patek Philippe, Cubitus, 5821/1A-001. Green striped dial, stainless steel case, 44.50 mm diameter, 8.30 mm thickness, 44.90 mm lug-to-lug, sapphire crystal, 30 meters water resistance. Integrated stainless steel bracelet. Calibre 26-330 S C, automatic movement, hour, minutes, seconds, date, 212 components, 30 jewels, 28,800 Vph, 35-45 hours of power reserve. CHF 35,000.

Reference 5821/1AR: The Two-Tone Beauty

This two-tone version combines stainless steel and rose gold for a striking look, with the same 45mm case size and the same layout as the 5821/1A. Its blue dial brings an extra level of sophistication, matched by its higher price of CHF 52,000. This model will also hit boutiques on October 18, 2024.

Patek Philippe, Cubitus, 5821/1AR-001. Blue striped dial, 18k rose gold and stainless steel case, 44.50 mm diameter, 8.30 mm thickness, 44.90 mm lug-to-lug, sapphire crystal, 30 meters water resistance. Integrated 18k rose gold and stainless steel bracelet. Calibre 26-330 S C, automatic movement, hour, minutes, seconds, date, 212 components, 30 jewels, 28,800 Vph, 35-45 hours of power reserve. CHF 52,000.

Reference 5822P: The Grand Date in Platinum

The highlight of the Cubitus collection is the Reference 5822P, featuring a larger 9.60mm thick platinum case and a brand-new movement with six patents. The baguette-cut diamond bezel adds a touch of elegance, replacing the traditional diamond inlay seen on Patek Philippe’s other platinum models.

The dial layout of the 5822P is far more complex, showcasing a large date at 12 o’clock, a day of the week sub-dial at 7 o’clock with a moon phase, and small seconds at 5 o’clock. This watch is powered by the new Caliber 240 PS CI J LU, with an impressive 353 components and a power reserve of up to 48 hours.

The watch comes with a blue composite strap and platinum folding clasp and carries a hefty price tag of CHF 75,000.

Patek Philippe, Cubitus, 5822P-001. Blue striped dial, 950 platinum steel case, 44.50 mm diameter, 9.80 mm thickness, 44.90 mm lug-to-lug, sapphire crystal, 30 meters water resistance. Blue composite strap with a platinum folding clasp. Calibre 240 PS CI J LU, automatic movement with micro-rotor, hour, minutes, small seconds, big date, day, moon phase, 353 components, 52 jewels, 21,600 Vph, 38-48 hours of power reserve. CHF 75,000.

First Impressions and Verdict

At first glance, the Cubitus line seems to take design cues from the Cartier Santos, a resemblance that may leave Patek enthusiasts feeling uneasy. A Patek Philippe watch should never be confused with a Cartier, as each brand carries its own distinctive identity in the world of horology.

Another point of concern is the 45mm case size, which feels oversized for many wrists, making it less versatile for everyday wear. Additionally, the asymmetrical design of the Grand Date’s dial appears cluttered, with subdials and a logo placement that disrupts the overall harmony of the watch’s design.

One of the most controversial aspects of the collection is its pricing. The steel Nautilus with a green dial, released in 2021, came with a price tag of around €30,000. In contrast, the new Cubitus models exceed €40,000, reflecting an annual price inflation of nearly 10%. This dramatic price hike may seem disconnected from current market realities, especially in comparison to past offerings.

Conclusion

The Cubitus collection leaves much to be desired. Its bold design decisions and steep pricing may not resonate with the majority of collectors. Whether this collection will find its place in Patek Philippe’s rich legacy remains to be seen.

Read more here.