July 7 2025

IWC Unveils Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph LE In Armor Gold

MRSTATELESS IWC, NEW RELEASES 2025, Chronograph, Flying Tourbillon, Limited Edition, Rose Gold 0

IWC Schaffhausen introduces a refined addition to its Portugieser collection: the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph (Ref. IW394009). This new model brings together three sophisticated complications — a flying tourbillon, flyback chronograph, and retrograde date — within a luxurious 18k Armor Gold case and an Obsidian black lacquered dial. Limited to just 100 pieces, the watch underscores IWC’s commitment to horological innovation and refined design.

Case and Materials

The case measures 43.50 mm in diameter and 15.90 mm in height, offering a commanding yet balanced wrist presence. It is crafted from Armor Gold, IWC’s proprietary alloy of 18k rose gold developed to offer improved hardness and scratch resistance over traditional gold. A box-shaped sapphire crystal protects the dial, while a screw-in sapphire display caseback offers an unobstructed view of the movement within. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, suitable for daily wear though not intended for aquatic activity.

Dial and Display

The Obsidian black dial features a sunburst finish that is accentuated by 15 layers of clear lacquer, lending depth and gloss to the surface. At 6 o’clock, the one-minute flying tourbillon commands attention, showcasing the escapement as it rotates in a lightweight cage. At 12 o’clock, a coaxial totalizer houses both chronograph hours and minutes. On the left side of the dial, a retrograde date display adds further complexity, automatically resetting at the start of each month.

All hour markers are crafted in solid gold, and the hands are gold-plated, harmonizing with the case material. The dial is finished with gold-colored print for refined legibility.

Movement

Inside the watch beats the IWC-manufactured Caliber 89900, an automatic movement that operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and delivers a power reserve of 68 hours. This in-house caliber is responsible for powering the timepiece’s complex functions. The flyback chronograph enables instant reset and restart of the stopwatch mechanism with a single press. The retrograde date display adds a dynamic element to the calendar function, automatically returning to “1” at the end of each month. The flying tourbillon is engineered to reduce the effects of gravity on the balance wheel, helping to maintain timekeeping precision.

For this edition, the movement has been decorated with a rose gold finish on the plates and bridges, while the oscillating weight is crafted from solid 18k 5N gold, harmonizing visually with the Armor Gold case. These details are fully visible through the transparent caseback, allowing owners to appreciate the intricacy of the movement’s architecture and finishing.

Strap and Buckle

The watch is fitted with a 22 mm black alligator leather strap, paired with an Armor Gold folding clasp for security and comfort. The dark tones of the strap complement the Obsidian dial, while the gold accents tie the entire aesthetic together.

Limited Edition Status and Pricing

With only 100 examples available globally, the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph (Ref. IW394009) stands among the most exclusive offerings in IWC’s portfolio. Its combination of high complications, premium materials, and limited availability positions it near the top of the current Portugieser lineup.

The retail price is set at USD 145,000, reflecting both its technical sophistication and exclusive production.