Three years after the last pilot’s chronograph in its collection was discontinued, Breguet re-enters this category through the big door with two of its historic timepieces, the Type 20 and the Type XX.
Both are now redesigned and more contemporary while maintaining all their classic charm and past functionality.
The Type 20, which is the more iconic of the two, whose military inspiration goes back to the original model from the 1950s, is now presented with the ref. 2057, while the Type XX, the civil version born almost three decades ago, now appears with the ref. 2067.
Both now wear a 42mm diameter and 14.1mm thick stainless steel case, a little more robust than in the past thanks to the 2mm wider case, and bidirectional steel bezel, with the Type 20 featuring the coin-edge bezel with a unique 12 o’clock marking in the shape of the traditional inverted triangle, while the civil version features a smooth bezel with a 12-hour scale. Crown at 3 o’clock which in the military version comes in the onion shape, two pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock which are used to operate the flyback chronograph, sapphire glass on the front and on the rear, and finally 100m of water resistance.
The dial of the two chronographs comes with clear differences, with the Type 20 featuring Arabic numerals and pencil hands all filled with luminescent material in mint tone, two counters, materialized in a 30-minute totalizer and a running seconds at 3-9 o’clock respectively, and a date window at 4:30. In Type XX, although we find the same Arabic numerals that together with the leaf hands are filled now with beige luminous material, it comes with three counters (one more than the Type 20), with a 15 minute counter at 3 o’clock, a 12 hour counter at 6 and a small seconds at 9, and also with the same date window at 4:30 as the Type 20.
Inside the column wheel Chronographs are powered by automatic movements, the 339-part Caliber 7281 for the Type 20, and the 350-part Caliber 728 for the civilian version, which come with a vertical clutch, operating at a high frequency of 5 Hz and offer up to 60 hours of power reserve. Also noteworthy is the skeletonized oscillating weight in black which, together with the rest of the decoration of the other parts of the movement, can be seen through the open case back.
Both chronographs come attached to a leather strap and black fabric strap.
They are available from today, June 7, 2023, at official brand boutiques and authorized retailers and can be purchased for USD 18,000.
Despite maintaining the original layout, the option for a wider case, and the inclusion of the date window, especially at the 4:30 position, it seems debatable to us and, as you may have noticed, it is not our cup of tea.
But overall we liked, above all, the return of these two chronographs, we believe that in addition to being part of Breguet’s rich history, they should be part of its permanent collection.
Between the civil and military versions, we still prefer the latter although we liked to see it with the beige luminescent material of the Type XX.
More information at www.breguet.com.
Model: Type 20 Chronographe 2057, Type XX Chronographe 2067
Reference: 2057ST/92/3WU (Type 20), 2067ST/92/3WU (Type XX)
Case Material: Stainless steel
Case Dimensions: 42 mm diameter, 14.1 mm thick
Crystal: Sapphire Glass
Case Back: Sapphire Glass
Water Resistance: 100m
Strap: Leather strap and a black fabric strap
Caliber: 7281 (Type 20), 728 (Type XX)
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
Frequency: 5 Hz
Power Reserve: 60 Hours
Price: USD 18,000
Limited Edition: No