The introduction of silicone parts in complex Swiss movements was something revolutionary in the watch industry, whose benefits included temperature compensating, lightweight, lubricant-free, antimagnetic among many others.
Among the pioneering brands in the use of silicone components was Patek Philippe (PP), who since 2005 and through the introduction of “Advanced Research” gave rise to some limited editions. Thus, in 2005, the PP Annual Calendar Advanced Research Ref. 5250 was launched, a limited edition of 100 pieces, which distinguished itself by presenting an escape wheel made of Silinvar. A year later PP presents the Annual Calendar Advanced Research Ref. 5350, this time a limited edition of 300 pieces, which adds the Spiromax balance wheel to the previous technology. In 2008 PP revolutionized again with the introduction of the Annual Calendar Advanced Research Ref. 5450, a limited edition also of 300 pieces, which now adds the Pulsomax escapement to the previous innovative technologies. In 2011 PP again innovates with the introduction now of the Perpetual Calendar Advanced Research Ref. 5550, a limited edition of 300 pieces (just like the two previous ones), which once again, in addition to presenting all the previous innovations, also incorporates the GyromaxSi balance. Finally in 2017, through the limited edition of 500 pieces of the Aquanaut Travel Time Advanced Research Ref. 5650, the Swiss brand introduces an updated Spiromax balance spring and also a not-steel integrated monobloc piece.
Today, and four years after the last interaction of Advanced Research, PP now presents again a Minute Repeater Advanced Research Ref. 5750, which features a 40mm platinum case based on the Ref. 5178 case design, which could immediately raise doubts since platinum is not the best metal in acoustic terms due to its density, however, according to PP, this timepiece has a high acoustic quality thanks to its Fortissimo “ff” Amplifier Module, which in addition to coupling at 0.2mm oscillating wafer made of synthetic sapphire that optimizes the sound propagation of gongs, also features titanium ring between the caseback and the caseband with four openings at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock that allows the sound to propagate out of the case.
The openwork motif dial takes inspiration from the beautiful radial wheels of classic automobiles, with small seconds at 6 o’clock on which it operates in the shape of a disc, while the dial features a black nickel-plated snailed base with spiral relief and the white gold that underpins the accents, finally dauphine hands in white gold.
The watch is powered by the Caliber R 27 with a mini-rotor, which features a minute repeater and offers between 43 and 48 hours of power reserve. The watch is offered with an “orange” alligator leather strap with fold-over clasp.
Like all the previous interactions, this is a limited edition, with only 15 pieces, which will be available for the price of CHF 590,000, in the brand’s official boutiques.
More information at www.patek.com.
Brand: Patek Philippe
Model: “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater
Dial: White gold, black nickel-plated snailed base, open-worked ray motif
Case Material: 950 Platinum
Case Dimensions: 40 mm Diameter, 11.1 mm thickness
Crystal: Sapphire Glass
Case Back: Sapphire Glass
Water Resistance: No
Strap: Hand-stitched alligator leather with large square scales, shiny orange with black contrast stitching, 950 platinum foldover clasp
Calibre: R 27 PS
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, minute repeater with classic gongs
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 Vph)
Number of Parts: 342
Power Reserve: 43-48 Hours
Price: CHF 550,000
Limited Edition: Yes, 15 pieces