Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1: The King Of Cool Returns
Few watches carry a connection to Steve McQueen as naturally as the Hanhart 417 ES. Long before the actor became inseparable from watches such as the Heuer Monaco, McQueen was photographed wearing Hanhart’s distinctive pilot’s chronograph during his life away from the film set, particularly around his passion for motorcycles and racing.
Now, that connection has been formally recognised. Developed with the approval of McQueen’s descendants, the Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 brings together the historical 417 ES design, modern mechanical specifications and several details directly inspired by McQueen’s own watch and racing history.
Limited to just 300 pieces, it is also the first Hanhart 417 to feature Steve McQueen’s signature on the dial.
From Bundeswehr Pilot’s Watch to Steve McQueen
The story starts in the 1950s, when Hanhart developed the 417 as a professional chronograph for the German Bundeswehr. The watch was conceived around three essential qualities: legibility, robustness and straightforward operation.
Its design established many of the characteristics that remain instantly recognisable today: a black dial, two-register chronograph configuration, rotating fluted bezel and fluted crown. The later 417 ES, with “ES” standing for Edelstahl (stainless steel), introduced a more durable stainless-steel construction.
Steve McQueen’s relationship with the watch was considerably more personal. Historical photographs show the actor wearing a 417 ES in his private life, including during his motorcycle-racing activities.
McQueen competed in several demanding motorcycle events, including the 1964 International Six Days Trial in East Germany, where he rode a modified Triumph for the US team with race number 278. He would later participate in events such as the Baja 1000, sometimes competing under the name Harvey Mushman.
For the new edition, McQueen’s grandchildren Chase and Madison McQueen were involved in the project and approved the use of their grandfather’s signature.
A Compact 39mm Case
Hanhart has kept the proportions particularly close to the modern interpretation of the historical 417 ES.
The stainless-steel case measures 39 mm in diameter, 13.30 mm in thickness and 46 mm from lug to lug. The latter measurement helps preserve the compact proportions of the original-inspired design, while the thickness is partly the result of the prominently domed sapphire crystal.
The case combines brushed and polished surfaces, creating a contrast between the utilitarian character of the watch and the more refined finishing expected from a contemporary timepiece.
At 4 o’clock sits one of the most recognisable Hanhart details: the red chronograph pusher. Made from HyCeram, it provides a vivid visual contrast against the otherwise monochromatic case.
The bidirectional fluted bezel also incorporates a red insert, while the screw-down crown carries Hanhart’s historical “h” logo.
Sapphire crystal is used on both sides of the watch. The domed front crystal preserves the vintage appearance while offering modern scratch resistance, while the sapphire caseback reveals the movement underneath.
This is particularly notable for the 39mm configuration, as the transparent caseback had previously been associated with the larger 42mm 417 ES models.
Water resistance is rated at 100 metres.
A Familiar Pilot’s Dial with McQueen’s Signature
The matte black dial remains faithful to the functional character of the original 417 ES.
Large white Arabic numerals provide the primary hour markers, complemented by a classic two-register chronograph arrangement. Running seconds occupy the 9 o’clock sub-dial, while the 30-minute chronograph counter sits at 3 o’clock.
The hands and numerals are treated with Super-LumiNova in a Light Old Radium tone, giving the dial a deliberately aged appearance without sacrificing contemporary nighttime legibility.
Hanhart has also retained the distinctive downward-curved tips of the hands. On the original watches, this construction helped reduce parallax when reading the indications.
The most obvious change is, naturally, the addition of Steve McQueen’s signature. Kept relatively discreet, it appears above 6 o’clock, underneath the “shockproof” inscription.
Hand-Wound Flyback Chronograph
Inside the 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 is the AMT5100 M, a hand-wound mechanical chronograph produced by AMT Manufacture, Sellita’s high-end division.
The calibre is based on the Sellita SW510 M, itself related to the architecture of the Valjoux 7750, but has been extensively modified.
One of its most useful characteristics is the flyback function, allowing the chronograph to be reset and immediately restarted with a single operation rather than requiring the conventional stop-reset-restart sequence.
The movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and offers a minimum 58-hour power reserve.
A hacking-seconds mechanism also allows the balance to be stopped when the crown is pulled out, making precise time-setting easier.
Through the sapphire caseback, the movement can now be appreciated as part of the watch’s presentation rather than remaining hidden behind a solid back.
The Strap McQueen Made Famous
One of the more evocative details of the edition is its strap.
Historical photographs frequently show McQueen wearing his 417 ES on a dark brown cuff-style leather strap positioned underneath the watch. Hanhart has recreated this configuration using Shell Cordovan leather supplied by Italian tannery Comipel.
The strap uses a continuous leather construction, with additional padding underneath the watch, and is secured by a pin buckle featuring Hanhart’s historical logo.
A Limited Edition Built Around the Story
Hanhart is limiting the 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 to 300 pieces, with each watch accompanied by a collection of McQueen-inspired accessories.
The presentation includes a booklet, a numbered plaque and a limitation card inspired by McQueen’s 1964 racing licence.
Perhaps the most unexpected inclusion is a small bottle of red nail polish.
It references the famous red Hanhart chronograph pusher. One popular story claims that a pilot’s girlfriend painted the button red so he would remember her and return safely. While the romantic version has become part of Hanhart lore, the more practical explanation is that the red button was designed to make the reset control immediately visible and reduce the possibility of accidental activation.
The new edition turns that distinctive detail into part of the ownership experience.
Limited to 300 pieces, the Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 is priced at € 2,890.
More information here.
General Specifications:
Brand: Hanhart
Model: 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1
Reference: H705L.210-2110
Dial: Matte black
Lume: Super-LumiNova
Case Material: Stainless steel
Case Dimensions: 39 mm Diameter, 13.30 mm thickness, 46 mm lug-to-lug
Crystal: Sapphire glass
Case Back: Sapphire glass
Water Resistance: 100 Meters
Strap: Comipel dark brown Shell Cordovan cuff strap with steel pin buckle and padded underside
Caliber: Sellita AMT5100 M
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 Vph)
Jewels: 23
Power Reserve: 58 Hours
Price: € 2,890
Limited Edition: Yes, 300 pieces
Availability: Now
