From Trackside To Today: The New Universal Genève Tribute To “The Nina”
Universal Genève continues its gradual return to the spotlight with an extremely limited release: two exclusive sets of Tribute to Compax chronographs inspired by the legendary “Nina.” While the brand prepares for a full relaunch in 2026, these new one-off sets offer a rare preview of Universal Genève’s direction, combining historical fidelity, artisanal craftsmanship, and revived mechanical heritage.
A Design Rooted in Racing History
“The Nina” nickname originates from Nina Rindt, the Finnish model and wife of Formula 1 champion Jochen Rindt. Throughout the late 1960s, she became a recognizable figure in the paddock, often seen timing laps with a Universal Genève Compax on her wrist. Her choice to pair the watch with a wide leather Bund strap turned the chronograph into an unexpected fashion statement, giving the piece a distinct identity that collectors would later celebrate.
The new Tribute to Compax models reintroduce this aesthetic with a refined touch, preserving the character of the vintage design while elevating it through luxurious materials and traditional techniques.
Two Ultra-Exclusive Sets
Universal Genève is releasing six watches in total, organized into two unique sets. Each set contains three watches, and neither set can be purchased in individual pieces. This means that collectors who wish to acquire one model must acquire the entire trio. Both sets are available strictly upon request, and the asking price for each is CHF 135,000 before taxes.
The first set brings together a white gold chronograph with a panda dial, a red gold model featuring a reverse-panda configuration, and another red gold version equipped with a translucent brown enamel dial. The second set mirrors this structure but reverses the case–dial combinations, comprising a white gold reverse-panda model, a red gold panda-dial version, and a white gold watch showcasing a translucent blue enamel dial. The arrangement ensures that each set offers a mix of classic monochrome designs and contemporary colored enamel executions.
Case Dimensions and External Details
Across all six references, the watches share identical dimensions that closely echo the 1960s originals. Each case measures 36 mm in diameter, with a thickness of 12.67 mm and a lug-to-lug length of 44.44 mm. The lug width is 19mm, keeping proportions harmonious with the vintage-inspired silhouette. Water resistance is rated at 50 meters. In keeping with historical accuracy, the bezel insert is crafted from aluminum rather than ceramic, reinforcing the period-correct design philosophy that guides the collection.
Revived Caliber 281 — A Return to Mechanical Heritage
One of the standout elements of this special release is found inside the case. Universal Genève located six original Caliber 281 manual-winding chronograph movements within its archives. These column-wheel calibers were once central to the brand’s identity and its Compax line in particular. For the Tribute to Compax chronographs, each movement has been carefully restored and finished, offering a rare blend of vintage mechanics and modern assembly standards.
The Caliber 281 measures 28.50 mm in diameter and 7.10 mm in thickness. Its architecture remains true to the historical design, and its revival marks a symbolic step toward Universal Genève’s stated goal of returning to full-scale in-house movement production in the coming years. Notably, these Tribute models are the only modern versions of “the Nina” to carry a historical Universal Genève movement.
Grand Feu Enamel Dials
To complement their precious metal cases and revived movements, all six watches feature dials created using the Grand Feu enamel technique. This centuries-old method requires the application of powdered minerals mixed with metallic oxides, which are fired in a kiln at temperatures exceeding 800°C. Multiple firings—sometimes up to ten—are necessary to achieve the desired depth, clarity, and permanence.
The collection includes four dial colors: an opaque white and an opaque black, both echoing classic chronograph aesthetics, and two translucent shades in blue and brown that lend a more contemporary tonality. Each dial is paired with indexes crafted from the same gold as the case, ensuring a unified aesthetic.
Bund Straps Reimagined
A defining feature of Nina Rindt’s original look was her use of a Bund strap. For this tribute, Universal Genève collaborated with Japanese leather artisan Satoru Hosoi, known for his exceptional craftsmanship and past work with Hermès and Moynat. From his Paris atelier, Hosoi created a bespoke three-part Bund strap in calfskin. Each piece is permanently interconnected through hand-stitching, diverging from the traditional detachable Bund constructions to create a seamless, couture-like reinterpretation of the style.
A Rare Glimpse into Universal Genève’s Future
Although these Tribute to Compax sets do not form part of Universal Genève’s future core catalog, they serve as a clear statement of intent. The use of restored historical calibers, Grand Feu enamel dials, artisanal leatherwork, and precious metals demonstrates the brand’s commitment to reestablishing itself among high-end Swiss manufacturers. With their exclusivity, craftsmanship, and storytelling rooted in both racing heritage and watchmaking tradition, these Tribute to “the Nina” chronographs offer a privileged preview of Universal Genève’s highly anticipated return.
