April 27 2026

De Bethune DB28XS Sea Tourbillon: A Compact Take On An Iconic Design

MRSTATELESS DE BETHUNE, NEW RELEASES 2026, Titanium, Tourbillon 0

Since its introduction in 2010, the De Bethune DB28 has stood out as one of the most distinctive designs in contemporary haute horlogerie. With the DB28XS Sea Tourbillon, De Bethune refines that identity into a more compact, wearable format—while adding a striking new aesthetic inspired by the movement of water.

A more compact DB28, without compromise

The DB28XS line represents a thoughtful evolution of the original concept. In this Sea Tourbillon version, the case measures 38.70 mm in diameter and just 8 mm in height, making it the most wearable interpretation of the DB28 architecture to date. Crafted entirely from mirror-polished titanium, the case benefits from the material’s combination of lightness and strength.

One of the defining ergonomic elements remains the brand’s floating lug system. These articulated lugs adapt to wrist movement, ensuring comfort despite the watch’s technical complexity. The signature crown positioned at 12 o’clock further reinforces the model’s unconventional layout.

A dial shaped by motion and light

At the heart of the design is the unmistakable delta-shaped bridge in heat-blued titanium—a hallmark of the DB28 family. On the Sea Tourbillon, this structure is decorated with a random guilloché motif, forming wave-like patterns across its surface. The result is a dynamic interplay of light and texture that contrasts with the more mechanical elements visible on the dial.

Surrounding the display is a titanium hour ring treated with De Bethune’s microlight finishing. This intricate engraving technique uses fine grooves to reflect and diffuse light, enhancing legibility while adding visual depth. Polished hour markers and openworked titanium hands complete the display, maintaining the brand’s signature aesthetic clarity.

High-frequency tourbillon performance

At 6 o’clock, the watch features a 30-second tourbillon, a key technical highlight. The ultra-light titanium cage—composed of 63 components—weights just 0.18 grams and rotates twice per minute. Operating at a high frequency of 5Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour), it is designed to improve chronometric stability.

The movement, visible dial-side due to its inverted architecture, emphasizes both technical precision and visual engagement. The openworked blued titanium bridge holding the tourbillon adds to the overall sense of depth and transparency.

Calibre DB2009V7 and robust engineering

Powering the watch is the manual-winding calibre DB2009V7. It delivers a substantial 5-day power reserve via twin self-regulating barrels, ensuring consistent energy delivery. The movement is also engineered to resist magnetic fields, shocks, and accelerations—features that reinforce its everyday reliability despite its high-complication status.

Turning the watch over reveals a more restrained caseback. A radially decorated plate partially conceals the movement, offering glimpses of polished bridges and internal components while maintaining a clean overall presentation.

Price and positioning

The DB28XS Sea Tourbillon is priced at CHF 170,000, placing it firmly within the upper tier of independent haute horlogerie. It combines distinctive design, advanced engineering, and meticulous hand-finishing—hallmarks that define De Bethune’s approach to watchmaking.