Category: TOP STORIES

August 30 2022

Introducing the Tudor Pelagos 39mm

Ricardo Amaral NEW RELEASES, TOP STORIES, TUDOR 0

The game has changed! The announcement of the arrival of the new Tudor Pelagos 39mm changes everything, for all those who have dreamed of a more moderate-sized Pelagos for years, for all those who continue to resist the temptation to buy a Tudor BB58 essential for its dimensions, you now have the opportunity to acquire the Tudor they dreamed of.

I’m suspicious for a few years now asking for the arrival of this Tudor and I can already say that despite having been quite excited with the arrival a few months ago of the Tudor Black Bay Pro that the new Tudor Pelagos 39mm that is now arriving is, for now, the only Tudor I want in my collection and I believe that I should not be the only one.

If the first look does not reveal significant changes in its design and layout, the same cannot be said in terms of characteristics, the most evident being denounced by the inscriptions on the dial of “only” 200m of water resistance compared to the previous imposing 500m, it’s quite a reduction in more than half of the previous water tightness, and so it’s not surprising the absence of the previous helium escape valve, but if you want to know my opinion I don’t even care. The other external difference is in the titanium bracelet that comes with a Tudor “T-fit” safety clasp and diving extension instead of the folding clasp with the extension system of the other Pelagos, and here you probably lose in terms of comfort but you win aesthetically since in terms of design the previous clasp patented by Tudor left a lot to be desired, however, I leave a caveat here, by the photos the size of the new clasp seems to be too long which could be a problem, hopefully, it’s just an optical illusion.

There are two novelties on the dial, the first is the fall of the date window, which once again does not bother me at all, despite recognizing that it was one of the few discreet and well-arranged ones on the dial that interfered little with its balance, and the second novelty is the reduction from five to four lines of text at 6 o’clock, now the inscription “Pelagos” in red is the image of what was already happening with the LHD edition and here it also seems to us to be a nice upgrade.

Inside, as you can imagine, lives the (not) new Caliber MT5400, which also operates on later versions of the Black Bay 58, which remains COSC certified, operates at 28,800 Vph and offers up to 70 hours of power reserve.

Everything else remains the same, outside brushed titanium case and bracelet, unidirectional ceramic bezel with luminescent material, screw-down crown at three o’clock with crown guards, sapphire crystal and an additional black rubber strap with dive extension.

On the black dial with sunray satin finish, luminescent monoblock ceramic composite hour markers in white with blue glow and central snowflake hands.

Finally, a reference to the price, which is even more competitive, € 4,240, that is, € 300 less than the 42mm versions, which serves to further spice up this promising launch, for now, that’s all, and the promise of a new review as soon as we can check it out live.

Rolex Surprises with the Launch of the New Left-Handed GMT MASTER II

Ricardo Amaral NEW RELEASES, ROLEX, TOP STORIES Watches&Wonders 0

As hard as we try and regardless of whether or not we like its choices, we have to say, Rolex is probably the only one in the world to follow its own guidance, it doesn’t take advice from others and rarely listens to its audience, it simply follows its destiny.

Today Rolex managed to once again surprise the many fans of the brand with the launch of the new Rolex GMT-Master II with a green and black bezel, but the surprise was the positioning of the crown, an unexpected Left-Handed Rolex GMT.

I don’t understand why watches with a left-hand crown are still considered for lefties, I’m right-handed and I almost always wore the watch on my right wrist, and I know many people who do the same, of course, we all have a tendency to follow the crowd and the dogmas created over the years, simply because we were taught from a young age that watches are to be worn on the left arm.

The new model in GMT with a 40mm stainless steel case, as already mentioned, comes with a bi-colour Cerachrom bezel painted in black from 18 to 6 o’clock representing the nighttime and in green in the opposite direction from 6 to 18 o’clock representing the daytime, screw-down crown at 9 o’clock with crown-guards and sapphire crystal.

On the glossy black dial, the usually applied hour markers and hands in white filled with lume, the central green GMT hand and for me perhaps the biggest surprise, the date window at 9 o’clock positioned next to the crown with a magnifier on the crystal, which is very rare. As it turns out, not even its “brother” Tudor Pelagos LHD features such a layout, once again Rolex manages to surprise us with such an innovation.

Inside, the automatic movement Caliber 3285 operates, which offers up to 70 hours of power reserve.

The watch is offered with an Oyster stainless steel bracelet, which alternates between the polished finish of the central links to the brushed finish of the side links.

Our Opinion

Undoubtedly, the new Rolex GMT-Mater II will delight many collectors and help to increase the already long waiting list.

We liked above all for being different, the left crown and the left date window, without a doubt, surprised us, since the colour combination of the bezel and despite being a complete novelty in the model, almost goes unnoticed compared to everything else.

Finally, it seems to us that keeping the 100m of water resistance is little these days and when, for example, its sister brand Tudor has just launched the Black Bay Pro for a third of the price with twice the range.

The Arrival of the Much-Desired Tudor Black Bay Pro the “Fifty-Eight GMT”

Ricardo Amaral NEW RELEASES, TOP STORIES, TUDOR Watches&Wonders 0

Since the birth of the Black Bay Fifty Eight, the public has been clamouring for a Black Bay Fifty Eight GMT for a long time, and in recent years, bets are being placed on the possible launch of this more than desired watch, and today Tudor ends to please its audience with the launch of the Black Bay Pro, and any resemblance with the Rolex Explorer II is not a pure illusion.

The new Black Bay Pro appears a little different from what the public would have initially dreamed of, although it is already starting to be a tradition, when many bet on Balck Bay with a bi-colour bezel, Tudor offers now a steel fixed bezel with 24 hours scale.

In terms of the 39mm stainless steel case, there is not much to say and the only surprises are the bezel that we have already talked about, the black concave dial features the traditional snow-flakes hands and accents in beige filled with green lume, adding now a central GMT hand in yellow, matching the hue of the inscription of 200m of water resistance at 6 o’clock, preceded by the two lines of white inscription of “Chronometer” and “Officially Certified”, and finally a date window at three o’clock.

Inside, the Caliber MT5652 (COSC certified) automatic movement operates and offers up to 70 hours of power reserve.

The watch is offered with a stainless steel bracelet with rivets, with a polished and satin finish as the case, or alternatively with a leather and rubber strap or fabric strap, like most of the Black Bay collection.

The watches are now available at the brand’s official stores and retailers, with prices starting at €3,840 and €3,540 for the steel bracelet and leather/rubber or fabric strap variants respectively.

Our Opinion

We have no doubt that it will be a success just like the rest of the BB58 collection, we were surprised by the steel bezel and the yellow details, we had not considered this possibility, but in the end, we have to say that we were very pleased with the final result. The price is probably the cherry on the cake, with a price of € 3,840 with a steel bracelet, it should become one of the GMT hot killers on the market.

The Big Launch of Omega x Swatch: The MoonSwatch

Ricardo Amaral NEW RELEASES, OMEGA, SWATCH, TOP STORIES 0

One week away from the start of W&W2022, Omega and Swatch have probably launched the most-awaited and unexpected novelty on the market, in the form of the MoonSwatch, a collaboration between Omega and Swatch that pays tribute to the legendary Speedmaster Moonwatch and also to Swatch for its pioneering spirit, that saved the Swiss watch industry, from the Quartz crisis in the 70s and 80s.

We start by saying that the MoonSwatch is a faithful copy of the original Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, with exactly the same proportions, 42mm in diameter and 13.25mm in thickness, bezel with tachymeter scale where there is no lack of the dot over 90 and twisted lugs.

On the dial, the same layout of the historic Moonwatch, with three counters at 2, 6 and 10 o’clock, hands and hour markers with the same shape, and where there is no lack of inscriptions of Omega and Swatch logos at 12 o’clock, “Speedmaster” at 9 o’clock and ” MoonSwatch” at 3 o´clock.

The Bioceramic case, made two-thirds of ceramic and one-third of castor oil derivatives, is perhaps the biggest novelty, which gives the watch a contemporary look and is becoming Swatch’s signature. The entire watch body is made of this material, including the case, bezel, crown, pushers and case back. Inside, as expected, operates a quartz movement.

Altogether there are 11 new models in different colours and each one represents a different planet, which is drawn on the battery cover of each of the respective models. Not even the detail of the nylon Velcro strap is missing from the new MoonSwatch.

The watches will be on sale worldwide from the 26th of March in selected Swatch stores, with the sale being limited to two watches per customer, for the price of CHF 250.

We have a hard time saying which one we like best, but the classic with black dial, bezel and strap in a grey case is probably our choice. But all the other 10 models in different shades look equally dazzling and we can’t wait to be able to see them live and try them.

Introducing the Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep Collection

Ricardo Amaral NEW RELEASES, OMEGA, TOP STORIES 0

After in 2019 the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional surprised the world by beating the previous record and setting a new mark of 10,935 meters, now inspired by it, Omega introduces the Seamaster Ultra Deep collection with seven new additions.

The first titanium addition undoubtedly reminds us of the 2019 model that inspired all the collection, featuring a 45.5 mm case crafted in sandblasted and forged in Grade 5 titanium, ceramic bezel with Liquidmetal diving scale, domed sapphire crystal, “Manta Lugs” and an impressive 6,000m of water resistance.

On the black ceramised titanium dial, baton hour markers and hour and minute central hands filled with lume, and applied Arabic numerals and central seconds hand in blue.

Inside it is powered by the In-house movement Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8912, which offers up to 60 hours of power reserve and is METAS certified. The movement is sealed by a grade 5 titanium case back featuring a black laser-engraved Sonar emblem with the traditional Seahorse in the centre. The watch is offered with a black NATO strap and striped down the centre with a blue stripe, and it’s 100% made from recycled fishing net yarn.

The other six additions that come together are in stainless steel, or if we prefer in O-MEGASTEEL as the brand designates them, and which are characterized by their superior strength, their shine and high resistance to corrosion. The stainless steel case, despite sharing the same dimensions as the titanium variant and other features such as the domed sapphire crystal, ceramic bezel with diving scale, domed sapphire crystal and grade 5 titanium case back, also incorporate crown guards.

It is in the dial tones that we find three variants, one in white with bezel and blue accents, and two with gradient-effect dials, one in grey-to-black tones with bezel and orange accents and the other in blue-to-black tones with black bezel. In addition, all variants feature the glossy finish as well as 18k white gold hands and indexes. Inside it operates the same automatic movement as the titanium variant and which is METAS certified. Each of the three steel variants can be purchased with a rubber strap or an O-MEGASTEEL bracelet with the patented extendable foldover rack-and-pusher.

More information at www.omegawatches.com.

General Specifications:

Brand: Omega

Model: Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 600oM

Reference: 215.92.46.21.01.001 (titanium), 215.30.46.21.03.001 (steel blue on steel), 215.32.46.21.03.001 (steel blue on strap), 215.30.46.21.04.001 (steel white on steel), 215.32.46.21.04.001 (steel white on strap), 215.30.46.21.06.001 (steel black on steel), 215.32.46.21.06.001 (steel black on strap)

Dial: Black ceramised grade 5 titanium, blue-black gradient, grey-black gradient, white

Lume: Super-LumiNova

Case Material: Grade 5 titanium, O-MEGASTEEL

Case Dimensions: 45.5 mm Diameter, 18.12mm thick

Crystal: Sapphire Glass

Case Back: Grade 5 titanium

Water Resistance: 6000 Meters

Strap: Nato strap, rubber strap, stainless steel bracelet

Calibre: 8912

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, diving bezel

Winding: Automatic

Frequency: 25,200 Vph

Jewels: 39

Power Reserve: 60 Hours

Price: € 12,100 (steel on strap), € 12,400 (steel on steel), € 13,200 (titanium)

Availability: 2022

PatekPhilippeNautilus5711Tiffany_1100x667_Cover

December 6 2021

The Recently Discontinued Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 is Back, Now in a Limited Edition Co-Signed by Tiffany

Ricardo Amaral NEW RELEASES, PATEK PHILIPPE, TOP STORIES Tiffany 0

Like alliances, there are partnerships that are for life and if there’s one thing I’ve learned to value over time, it’s loyalty, which is increasingly rare, and whenever we come across this type of commitment, we can only applaud and elevate them. Being Portuguese, I don’t forget that Portugal and England have the oldest diplomatic alliance in the world, the Anglo-Portuguese Treaty of 1373, almost celebrating 750 years and that lasts until today. So when we were informed today of a very limited edition of the new Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 co-signed with Tiffany, it did not surprise us, as the re-emergence through a limited edition of the discontinued Nautilus in January this year could only be justified through a partnership with this weight.

But let’s face it, separated by just 2 years of existence, both brands date back to the late 30s of the 19th century and established the first partnership in 1851, making Tiffany the first official dealer in the United States of Patek Philippe. Since then and until today, the partnership has been maintained, despite numerous important events in the lives of the two brands, namely the recent sale of the Tiffany brand to the LVMH group earlier this year.

From the partnership between the two brands, at least four limited editions were born, between the years 2001 and 2012, of which were made 700 watches, whose rarity and demand make them nowadays true treasures in the hands of those who own them.

Thus, the new Nautilus 5711 with a Tiffany blue dial aims to celebrate 170 years of partnership between the two brands, with a total of 170 units that will be made available at the retail price of $ 52,635 exclusively by Tiffany & Co. boutiques in three locations, New York, San Francisco, and Beverly Hills.

We don’t know who will be the lucky ones to get one of the 170 pieces, but for sure in the following weeks we will see the price of some of these pieces soaring that will end up in the “secondary” market and we wouldn’t be surprised to hear about prices around or even higher than 500k, we recall that in April the last non-limited edition of the Nautilus with the green dial and with a retail price of € 30,400 was sold three months later in Monaco through an auction for over € 400k.

Turning now to the watch itself, it is quite obvious to say that the Tiffany blue dial is really the watch’s highlight since in terms of technical characteristics it is absolutely equal to other models in its line. Returning to the dial, in addition to the blue on the traditional embossed pattern, there are the blackened gold accents, which extend from the hour markers to the hands, passing there through the date window frame. Everything on the dial is in harmony, even the white lume that fills the hour and minute hands and also the hour markers find symmetry in the white background of the date window, which we so often criticize here for not being an extension of the dial’s tone, but here it is incredibly perfect. Still pointing out the brand’s signatures in the same tones as the accents, with Patek Philippe at 12 o’clock and Tiffany & Co at 6 o’clock.

As we’ve already mentioned, everything straight remains the same, outside the usual 40 mm case configuration and integrated stainless steel bracelet with a finish that alternates between polished and brushed, and sapphire case back with the inscriptions of “170th Anniversary” and “Tiffany & Co – Patek Philippe” around and “1851 – 2021” in the center, with the little detail of the 1 of 2021 being filled in with the letters “LVMH” in the vertical. Finally, the watch is powered by the Caliber 26-330 SC automatic movement that offers up to 45 hours of power reserve.

More information at www.patek.com.

General Specifications:

Brand: Patek Philippe

Model: Nautilus

Reference: 55711/1A-018

Dial: Tiffany blue

Lume: Yes

Case Material: Stainless steel

Case Dimensions: 40 mm Diameter, 8.3 mm thickness

Crystal: Sapphire Glass

Case Back: Sapphire Glass

Water Resistance: 120 Meters

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet

Calibre: 26-330 S C

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Winding: Automatic

Frequency: 28,800 Vph

Jewels: 30

Number of Parts: 212

Power Reserve: 35-45 Hours

Price: $ 52,635

Limited Edition: Yes, 170 pieces

September 23 2021

Introducing the Omega Chronoscope

Ricardo Amaral NEW RELEASES, OMEGA, TOP STORIES 0

Let’s take a quick look at the latest news from Omega, which in addition to being unexpected is quite exciting for us and probably for many brand lovers, we are talking about the new Omega Chronoscope. If you like or have been dating for some time those old triple scale chronographs, then Omega has just offered you the possibility of purchasing one of these timepieces with a vintage look but equipped with a robust and modern movement.

The term “Chronoscope” derives from two Greek expressions, “Chronos” which means Time, and “Scope” which means to Observe.

But after the presentations, let’s get down to business, the new Chronoscope is offered in seven variants, six in stainless steel and one in Bronze Gold (composed with 37.5% gold). Of the six stainless steel variants, two come with a silver dial with blue hands and accents, two come with a blue dial with rhodium-plated hands and accents, and another two with a silver dial, with black subdials and hands, best known as “Panda dial” and that also comes with some details in red. As for the Bronze-Gold variant, it comes with a brown dial, silver subdials, hands and accents with a bronze-gold PVD coating.

The new Chronoscopes come in a 43 mm diameter and 12.8 mm thick case, aluminum bezel in the stainless steel variants and ceramic in the Bronze Gold variant, sapphire glass, open case back, and 50m water resistance. The dial houses two subdials positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock and two internal scales, Telemeter and Pulsometer the third scale, Tachymeter is housed in the fixed bezel.

Inside, it operates the Co-Axial Caliber 9908 manual movement, which is a certified Master Chronometer by METAS, decorated with “Geneva waves in arabesque” on the bridge and offering up to 60 hours of power reserve. The watches are offered with a leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet on the steel variants and with a leather strap on the Bronze Gold variant. Available from November at prices from € 8,100 and € 8,500 for the stainless steel variants with leather strap and stainless steel bracelet respectively and € 13,800 for the Bronze Gold variant.

Our Opinion

We really want to see the new Chronoscopes live, because at first glance they are beautiful and almost make us forget their 43 mm diameter. The Bronze Gold variant with a brown dial is stunning and our favorite right now. And for now, it’s all said.

Introducing the New Rolex Explorer – The 36mm is back

Ricardo Amaral NEW RELEASES, ROLEX, TOP STORIES Watches&Wonders 0

Rolex finally introduced the novelties and starting with the professional line, let’s do it with the Rolex Explorer I.

The Rolex Explorer is a watch that gained notoriety for (not) being used in the climb of Everest and although the story is a little different, we cannot take credit for the story that made the Rolex Explorer I what it is today. If you want to know more about its history we leave the link here.

The novelty arises in what was little predictable that the size of the Explorer I could decrease again, after having grown to 39mm due to the reduction of the traditional 36mm that occurred more than 10 years ago in 2010, however, today Rolex toasted us again with the size that lives up to the history of this watch. I personally and many people should be happy with this step since I would hardly buy a Rolex Explorer I in the size of 39mm or even larger.

This new Rolex Explorer I comes in two variants, the traditional stainless steel and which we will not talk about since its improvements are limited to the “new” Chromalight lume and the new movement which it shares with the new two-tone variant and on which we are already talking. The new yellow Rolesor variant is a combination of Oystersteel and 18k yellow gold comes with a 36mm case, bezel and crown in 18k yellow gold, oyster bracelet with gold central links. The black dial, now lacquered, is now more refined, inside applied numbers, hour indexes and hands in gold with luminescence and where the Chromalight lume was improved, allowing a longer duration and better visibility in conditions of little light. The oyster case comes with the traditional 100m water resistance.

Inside it operates the automatic movement Caliber 3230 which is Superlative Chronometer Certified which already equips its models Oyster Perpetual 36 and 41 and also the Submariner no-date 41 and which offers up to 70 hours of power reserve.

The watches can be purchased starting today at the brand’s boutiques and come with a price of € 6,150 and € 10,450 for the steel and 18k yellow gold variants respectively.

General Specifications:

Brand: Rolex

Model: Explorer

Reference: 124270 (Oystersteel), 124273 (Oystersteel and yellow gold)

Dial: Black

Lume: Chromalight

Case Material: Oystersteel, Oystersteel and yellow gold

Case Dimensions: 36 mm Diameter

Crystal: Sapphire Glass

Case Back: Oystersteel

Water Resistance: 100 Meters

Strap: Oystersteel bracelet, Oystersteel and yellow gold bracelet

Calibre: 3230

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds

Winding: Automatic

Frequency: 28,800 Vph

Jewels: 31

Power Reserve: 70 Hours

Price: € 6,150 (Oystersteel), € 10,450 (Oystersteel and yellow gold)

Omega Seamaster300_Bronze_1100x667_Cover

March 24 2021

Introducing the Omega Seamaster 300 in Bronze Gold

Ricardo Amaral NEW RELEASES, OMEGA, TOP STORIES 0

Omega flooded us yesterday with a set of new watches, through an online presentation and although on the one hand we can be comfortable at home watching the news and being aware of the technical characteristics, it is nonetheless impersonal, after all having the watch in your hands, feel and touch it, talk to people and see how their reactions are, it is not possible to do online and that is why we hope that soon everything can get back to normal.

But let’s start by talking about the one that stood out the most in my eyes and that I think I was not the only one, the Omega Seamaster 300 in Bronze Gold. I don’t know if it’s the brown dial that is allusive to the much sought after vintage watches with tropical dials if it’s the “bronze” case if it’s even the combination of the two, what I do know is that I really like it. I was never a big fan of gold watches, but I also confess that I was less than I am today and this combination of a brown dial with the accents in tons of gold combined with the bronze case looks amazing.

This novelty in the Seamaster 300 collection, is not just another variant in the collection, it brings some interesting news. Starting with the case, it undergoes a slight reduction in thickness, which is compensated by the sapphire glass that now features a boxy shape. Regarding the diameter it remains the same 41 mm, it is in terms of the material that this new Seamaster is also different on the outside because it comes with anti-allergic properties conferred by the combination of used materials that includes copper, 9k gold, silver, gallium and palladium. The bezel now appears more elegant due to its 1mm weight loss and this is the reason why the dial now appears larger to compensate for this difference but maintaining the previous proportions. Still referring to the bezel, it receives a brown ceramic insert that comes with the same diver scale as its early 1957 Seamaster 300.

As far as the dial is concerned, it starts off a sandwich dial, construction through different layers, in this case, two, the first bronze plate is filled with luminescence material that gives it a vintage look (some call it Faustina) and then the second plate is placed in brown tones with clippings from the hour and number indexes. There are no changes to the central hour and minute hands that continue to show the arrow shape, however, there is a change to the central second hand that unlike the other new models in the collection and also the 1959 Seamaster 300 does not come with its point in a lollipop shape presenting now a small arrow, all hands are filled with luminescence material in the same tone as the rest of the accents on the dial. On the dial also the inscription of the logo followed by “Omega” at 12 o’clock and below the indication of the model “Seamaster 300” at 6 o’clock.

Another novelty of this new Seamaster 300 is a new movement, the In-house Caliber 8912, which offers up to 60 hours of power reserve, has an accuracy between 0 / + 5 seconds per day, resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss and that comes with Master Chronometer certification by Metas.

Seamaster 300 Co-Axial Master Chronometer

Just a brief reference to the other four new models of the Seamaster 300 collection in stainless steel, they come in two variants at the level of the dial, in black and blue, as already mentioned above come with the central second hand in a lollipop shape and unlike the Bronze Gold version, they do not feature a bezel with ceramic insert. They are available with a steel bracelet or a leather strap, in dark brown for the black variant as happen with the Bronze Gold variant and in light brown for the blue variant. The remaining features are exactly the same as the Bronze Gold variant.

General Specifications:

Brand: Omega

Model: Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold, Seamaster 300 Co-Axial Master Chronometer

Reference: 234.92.41.21.10.001 (bronze gold), 234.30.41.21.01.001 (steel black on steel), 234.30.41.21.03.001 (steel blue on steel), 234.32.41.21.01.001 (steel black on strap), 234.32.41.21.03.001 (steel blue on strap)

Dial: Bronze, black, blue

Lume: Super-LumiNova

Case Material: Bronze Gold and ceramic bezel, stainless steel

Case Dimensions: 41 mm Diameter

Crystal: Sapphire Glass

Case Back: Sapphire Glass

Water Resistance: 300 Meters

Strap: Brown leather strap, stainless steel bracelet

Calibre: 8912

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, dive bezel

Winding: Automatic

Frequency: 25,200 Vph

Jewels: 38

Power Reserve: 60 Hours

Price: € 10,840 (bronze gold), € 6,500 (steel on steel), € 6,100 (steel on strap)

Availability: June 2021 (bronze gold), April 2021 (steel)

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Seamaster 300 Co-Axial Master Chronometer

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