Moritz Grossmann Tefnut 36: A Slim Dress Watch With An Exceptional Silver Dial
Moritz Grossmann marks the 200th anniversary of Carl Moritz Grossmann’s birth with a new limited-edition interpretation of its Tefnut dress watch. The Tefnut 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue combines a compact 36 mm case with an exceptionally detailed hand-crafted dial and the brand’s slender in-house manual-winding calibre 102.1.
Limited to just 12 pieces, the new model brings together traditional Glashütte craftsmanship and a more contemporary colour palette, with turquoise numerals and details contrasting against a finely textured silver-plated surface.
A Compact Interpretation of the Tefnut
The Tefnut collection represents one of Moritz Grossmann’s most understated dress-watch designs, with an emphasis on slim proportions and restrained case architecture.
For this anniversary edition, the polished case measures 36 mm in diameter and just 8.50 mm thick. Its gently curved and tapered lugs contribute to the compact proportions, while the broad, flat winding crown provides a distinctive visual detail and practical grip.
The fully polished case keeps the focus firmly on the dial, while its relatively modest dimensions reinforce the watch’s traditional dress-watch character.
A Dial Shaped by an Historic Technique
The main attraction is the dial, which uses the silver-plating by friction technique. Moritz Grossmann has revived this demanding 19th-century method to create a finely grained, matte surface with a soft, almost velvety appearance.
The process starts with a brass dial blank. The Roman numerals are first engraved and subsequently filled with turquoise lacquer, before being fired at high temperature to harden the material.
The turquoise is complemented by black detailing elsewhere on the dial. The original 1875 “M. Grossmann” signature, railway-style minute track, small seconds markings and “Made in Germany” inscription are all finished in an inky black lacquer.
The silver-plated surface is produced from a mixture of pure silver powder, salt, cream of tartar and water. Applied with a fine brush, the mixture is manually rubbed into the dial to create its characteristic texture. Once the excess material has been removed, the dial is polished and covered with a protective lacquer to help preserve the silver finish.
The result is a dial where the silver background, turquoise numerals and black details create a distinctive visual identity while retaining the restrained character associated with Moritz Grossmann.
Hand-Finished Blue Steel Hands
The detailing continues with the watch’s slender, sharply pointed hands. Produced in-house, they are individually shaped from steel using diamond files before being heat-treated over an open flame to achieve their vivid blue colour.
Their polished chamfers are finished manually with a wooden disc, adding another layer of traditional handcraft to the dial.
At 6 o’clock, the small seconds display maintains the balanced proportions of the dial while reinforcing its classical watchmaking character.
The Slim Calibre 102.1
Turning the watch over reveals the calibre 102.1, an in-house manual-winding movement measuring only 3.50 mm in height.
The movement reflects Moritz Grossmann’s approach to traditional Saxon finishing. Its untreated German silver 3/5 plate is decorated with broad Glashütte ribbing and hand-polished bevels, while the stepped balance cock receives detailed floral engraving.
A discreet “1826” is incorporated into the decoration, linking the movement directly to the bicentenary being celebrated. The balance cock is completed by a polished Grossmann micrometre screw.
Another historical reference comes through the use of three solid-gold chatons fitted with clear white sapphires, rather than conventional synthetic ruby jewels. The steel screws are individually heat-treated to produce their characteristic violet-brown colour.
The movement operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and provides approximately 48 hours of power reserve when fully wound.
Limited to 12 Pieces
The Tefnut 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue is paired with a bluish-grey kudu leather strap and a steel prong buckle, complementing the cool tones of the dial while maintaining the watch’s dress-oriented character.
With its 36mm case, 8.5mm thickness, manually textured silver dial and exceptionally decorated 3.5mm-thick movement, this anniversary edition brings together several of Moritz Grossmann’s defining characteristics in a particularly compact format.
The Moritz Grossmann Tefnut 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue is limited to 12 pieces and is priced at € 29,000 excluding VAT.
Read more here.
General Specifications:
Brand: Moritz Grossmann
Model: Tefnut 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue – 200th Anniversary
References: MG-004153
Dial: Beige silver-plated by friction
Case Material: Stainless steel
Case Dimensions: 36 mm Diameter, 8.50 mm thickness
Crystal: Sapphire Glass
Strap: Grey kudu leather strap with steel prong buckle
Caliber: 102.1
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 Vph)
Jewels: 22
Components: 188
Power Reserve: 48 Hours
Price: € 29,000 (excl. VAT)
Limited Edition: Yes, 12 pieces each
Availability: Now
