Brutalist Watch Design Refined: The Toledano & Chan b/1.3r

The b/1.3r represents the latest evolution of Toledano & Chan’s b/1 series, continuing the brand’s exploration of architecture-driven watch design while introducing new materials and surface treatments. The model builds on a familiar foundation but updates several core components, including the case material, dimensions, and dial construction.

Case and Architecture

The case retains the distinctive faceted, geometric form that has become a defining characteristic of Toledano & Chan. Its design language draws from Brutalist architecture, with sharp planes and strong structural lines intended to evoke monolithic buildings rather than traditional round watch cases. The inspiration is rooted in modernist architecture, particularly the work of Marcel Breuer, whose designs emphasize function, mass, and material honesty.

For the b/1.3r, the case is executed in titanium rather than steel, meteorite, or carbon as seen in previous iterations. Titanium offers a high strength-to-weight ratio and improved wearing comfort, especially important given the sculptural nature of the case. The darker grey tone of titanium also reinforces the architectural aesthetic while providing visual contrast with the dial. Case dimensions have been slightly reduced to 32 mm, resulting in a more compact and wearable profile without altering the core design identity.

The case construction emphasizes sharp transitions between surfaces, with multiple facets interacting with light differently depending on angle. A faceted crystal sits above the dial, mirroring the geometry of the case and further reinforcing the cohesive design approach.

Dial Construction and Finish

The most significant update in the b/1.3r is the dial. Departing from the stone dials used in earlier models, this version features a solid yellow gold dial with a distinctive ripple pattern. The texture originates in the left corner and radiates outwards across the entire surface of the dial, creating a sense of movement and depth.

Each ripple band features a fine micro-texture rather than a polished finish. This treatment diffuses reflections and gives the dial a more tactile, organic appearance, contrasting with the industrial character of the case. The interaction between the textured gold surface and the angular crystal creates varied visual effects under changing light conditions.

The decision to move away from stone dials reflects a broader shift toward developing proprietary surface treatments rather than relying on naturally occurring materials. The result is a dial that remains visually complex while being fully integrated into the brand’s design vocabulary.

Movement and Technical Specifications

Powering the b/1.3r is the Sellita SW100 automatic movement. This compact calibre offers a power reserve of approximately 42 hours and is widely used across the independent and microbrand segment due to its reliability, serviceability, and established supply chain. The choice of movement prioritizes practicality and long-term maintenance, aligning with the watch’s functional underpinnings despite its expressive exterior.

While the movement remains unchanged from previous iterations, the surrounding updates to the case and dial place greater emphasis on design, materials, and finishing rather than mechanical novelty.

Positioning and Availability

The introduction of a solid gold dial and a titanium case places the b/1.3r at a higher price point than earlier models in the series. The watch is priced at USD 10,200, reflecting the material upgrade and increased complexity of the dial manufacturing process.

The Toledano & Chan b/1.3r is scheduled to go on sale on 12 February at 8:00am GMT. As with previous releases from the brand, production is expected to be limited, reinforcing its positioning within the niche of design-led independent watchmaking.

More information at toledanoandchan.com.

General Specifications:

Brand: Toledano & Chan

Model: b/1.3r

Dial: 18k solid gold ripple

Case Material: Grade 5 titanium

Case Dimensions: 32 mm Diameter, 10.40 mm thickness

Crystal: Sapphire Glass

Case Back: Titanium

Water Resistance: 50 m

Strap: Integrated titanium bracelet with a folding clasp

Caliber: Sellita SW100

Functions: Hours, minutes

Winding: Automatic

Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 Vph)

Jewels: 25

Power Reserve: 42 Hours

Price: USD 10,200

Limited Edition: Yes

Availability: 12 February 2026 at 8:00am GMT