Breguet Revives The Type XX In 38MM Gold For Its 250th Anniversary

To mark its 250th anniversary, Breguet continues its celebration of mechanical and historical excellence with the release of the Type XX Chronographe 2075BH, a pair of solid gold chronographs inspired by one of the brand’s most iconic pilot’s watches. This new edition expands on the revival of the Type XX collection that began in 2023, now introducing a more compact and traditional format built with modern materials and refined craftsmanship.

Design and Case

The Type XX Chronographe 2075BH is presented in a 38.30 mm case crafted from a proprietary alloy known as “Breguet gold.” This newly developed gold combines visual elements of both yellow and rose gold, offering a warm, blonde hue that feels both distinct and refined. The dimensions and the manually wound configuration are direct homages to the 1955 civilian Type XX reference 1780, a model that today resides in the Breguet museum. This nod to the past is coupled with modern enhancements in material and construction.

Dial Variants and Materials

Two versions of the Type XX Chronographe 2075BH are available, each with its own unique character. The first features a black anodized aluminum dial, which is a first for Breguet. This version is not a limited edition and adopts a utilitarian approach with luminous Arabic numerals and prominent subdials. It draws inspiration from Breguet’s history in aviation, particularly the brand’s early use of lightweight metals such as Duralumin, pioneered by Louis Breguet in the early 20th century.

The second version is a limited edition of 250 pieces and features a solid silver dial (Ag925) with a vertically brushed surface. This variant has a more classic and refined look, with applied Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock, while the remaining markers are slim batons. Unlike the black dial model, the numerals here are non-luminous, reinforcing the model’s elegant and civilian-oriented styling.

Movement and Chronograph Functions

Each version is powered by a manually wound chronograph movement derived from Breguet’s high-frequency caliber 728, originally introduced in the 2023 Type XX relaunch. The black dial model houses Caliber 7279, which features a 15-minute counter, while the silver dial variant is equipped with Caliber 7278, offering a 30-minute counter as well as a tachymeter scale.

Both movements operate at a high frequency of 5Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour) and incorporate flyback chronograph functionality, a feature essential to aviation timekeeping, allowing the chronograph to be reset and restarted with a single press. Additionally, each movement is finished with a hand-engraved illustration of the Breguet 19 aircraft in flight — a tribute to the 1930 Paris-to-New York transatlantic journey made by aviators Dieudonné Costes and Maurice Bellonte in a Breguet-built plane.

Strap and Packaging

Both watches are delivered with gradient leather straps that harmonize with their respective dials and cases, enhancing the visual unity of each piece. The watches come in a red Moroccan leather presentation box, a design inspired by historical Breguet packaging from the mid-20th century. This detail completes the vintage-inspired presentation and reinforces the anniversary’s thematic link to the brand’s aviation legacy.

Availability and Pricing

The black dial version of the Type XX Chronographe 2075BH is a regular production model and is priced at CHF 36,500. In contrast, the silver dial version is limited to 250 pieces worldwide and carries a retail price of CHF 38,000.

Our Opinion

Just as it happened with the brilliant launch of the Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035, the brand that celebrates its 250th anniversary this year is once again unveiling one of its most iconic models — the Type XX Chronographe 2075BH — in a 38mm case that matches the original’s dimensions as well as those of the Only Watch 2021 edition.

We don’t know whether this marks a long-term return to the brand’s roots or is a special gesture for the anniversary, but we certainly hope it’s the former. The market has clearly moved in this direction in recent years, something that was evident again at the latest edition of Watches and Wonders. In any case, we’re truly excited to see these two new masterpieces in person soon.

Between the two, we find ourselves especially drawn to the non-limited black dial version. Its aluminum construction and luminous details give it a slightly more authentic, tool-watch character. That said, the silver dial edition is equally compelling in its refined execution. One thing is certain: both are destined to win over many collectors and enthusiasts alike.

More information at www.breguet.com.

General Specifications:

Brand: Breguet

Model: Type XX Chronographe 2075

Reference: 2075BH/99/398 (black dial), 2075BH/G9/398 (silver dial)

Dial: Black anodized aluminum (Al), silver (Ag925)

Case Material: 18k Breguet gold

Case Dimensions: 38.30 mm Diameter, 13.20 mm thickness

Crystal: Sapphire Glass

Case Back: Sapphire Glass

Water Resistance: 50 Meters

Strap: Black/blue calfskin leather strap with a 18k gold pin buckle

Caliber: Breguet 7278 (black dial), 7279 (silver dial)

Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph (15 or 30-minute counters)

Winding: Hand-wound

Frequency: 5 Hz (36,000 Vph)

Power Reserve: 60 Hours

Price: CHF 36,500 (black dial), CHF 38,000 (silver dial)

Limited Edition: Yes, 250 pieces (silver dial)